Day 52, Sarajevo, Bosnia to Dubrovnik, Croatia

From Sarajevo to Dubrovnic

Not many tourists in this neck of the woods, that's for sure. We left Sarajevo this morning in the rain, which is nice for a change and again head through the mountains. A huge gorge, steep cliffs and rivers. A lot of rocks and debris on the road, which freaks me out a little, as the last thing I want is one landing on my windscreen! There is quite a lot of netting up, but clearly they missed a few bits. Came across an accident, hate seeing that, but there was help there, better than I could offer in English I am sure. Finally, out through the gorge, and stop for lunch. Absolutely no idea what I have ordered, something with beef I think. We're close to both the Serbian and the Montenegro border where we have stopped.

The beef arrived, just beef! Smoked, and very tasty.

Beef for lunch...

The trip continued, taking forever, dad a snooze (9 minutes, until we hit a bump in the road). The views in the mountains are stunning, but the going is slow. Almost hit a cow on the road, yes, hardly saw any, except for two wandering on the road, as well as some goats. 

A long wait at the border to get back into Croatia from Bosnia, but finally arrived at accommodation close to 4.30 after a 7 hour trip!

View from Bosnia towards
Croatian border

A quick drive to have a peek at Dubrovnik, as we're staying out of town, then dinner out with some live music.

Only thing getting me confused is currencies! Sunday, Monday, Tuesday; Hungary so Florins, then Wednesday Croatia, so Kuna, Thursday Bosnia; Marks, now back to Croatia! Argh, confusing, I have no idea how much things cost!

Day 51, Osijek Croatia to Sarajevo, Bosnia

Looking back to Olovo, Bosnia

Whereas yesterday's drive was erring on boring, today's drive was the total opposite. We left Osijek at 10 and arrived Sarajevo at 4.00 and it was only about 260 k's.

The drive was very interesting,  through a lot of mountainous areas, and tons of small villages.

We have decided that anyone and everyone is in business here, they are selling from their front yard. And either you sell rugs (Persian), watermelons or lawn mowers. Oh, and if you sell lawn mowers you also sell pushchairs. Makes sense, doesn't it! Honestly, every second house on our way past were selling goods from the front of their house, and mostly the before mentioned, sometimes a mix! We had a few chuckles over that.

Border between Croatia and Bosnia
runs through the middle of the river

The bazaars in Old Town sarajevo

The houses look more out of the ordinary than in Croatia, where the houses looked like the ones I used to make with Lego; 4 straight walls, pitched roof, 2 square windows in each wall and a door.

In Bosnia a bit more variety, 2 stories, balconies, colour. The only thing is, sometimes it's hard to tell if a house is still under construction (awaiting plaster over very rough brick work, no windows), or if it is the midst of being demolished due to (war) damage or if this is just how they build them! 

We stopped for coffee, 50 euro cents for two espressos! 

The trip was quite long, mainly due to the mountains and villages we went through, but it makes the drive so much more impressive. The closer we got to Sarajevo, the more 'civilised' everything became, as in the mountains at times it felt like time had stood still for a while.

Time stands still

We are staying really close to the Old Town Sarajevo, what a wonderful historic place, you just soak up the atmosphere as you walk in. Talked to a couple of Swedish guys, here for the 20th anniversary reunion for serving here with the UN.
Dinner and a walk along the river after, just lovely.

Dad enjoying a beer

Day 50, Budapest to Osijek, Croatia

Sunshine n a flower

Goodbye Budapest and Hungary and hello Croatia. A drive through the countryside, that's how it felt driving through Hungary for the almost 3 hours it took to get to the border. Corn and corn and corn, that's about all we saw besides sunflowers, which they also seem to grow a lot off. Absolutely beautiful, had to stop and take photos off course. We took the 'country roads' today, and besides the corn and sunflowers saw very little activity. The farmers were not out in force, we only saw 3 tractors (yes, we were counting them) and not a single cow or sheep in sight! 

The Croatian border stop was not exciting, check passports and away you go, and then we were in Croatia, formerly part of Yugoslavia.

Croatian border control

We found the accommodation for the night after a beer in the bar downstairs!
We have a two bedroom apartment tonight, kitchen, the works.

Holiday maker Kees

Osijek, where we are, is a welcoming town. People very friendly, and in general it just feels nice. 

We walked about, then a brisk walk to the 'Old Town' with a huge square and plenty of seats in the shade. Whiskey for dad, and the walk back home appeared much faster for some reason!

Osijek's old town square

Day 49, Budapest, Hungary

Lanchid Bridge by night

Not many more special places than a river cruise on the Danube with a glass of bubbly to start writing today's blog. 
A busy day sightseeing, First the Budapest Palace, absolutely stunning plus the views from up high were beautiful.

Up at the Palace

   

Lanchid Bridge by day

Up that way on the funicular, a sort ride. A walk over the Lanchid bridge, dad keeps up well.

Another hop on the big red bus, to near the lake, and a nice afternoon tea there.

Furnicular

Seeing the sighs, walk from here to there and back again, all quite tiring, so back to hotel to plan the route for tomorrow's travel through towards Dubrovnik.

A cruise this evening on the river, drinks on the boat and live music, all very nice. Interesting, four people sitting close to use, looked thoroughly p#ssed off with life, grumpiest faces, no, didn't want a drink. Toddler with them, unhappy, grumpy too. Then a different lady with her mum and her toddler. Mum and daughter nice and chatty, dancing with the toddler to the music, happy toddler, just interesting to watch.

Anyway, the cruise was lovely, a balmy evening, music very enjoyable. A trio, with two violins and a cello, Hungarian folk stuff, quick tempo, excellent.

Being serenaded

Some spectacular views as we were coming back in, all these beautiful old buildings lit up with spotlights.

The Palace viewed from the cruise boat

Day 48. Budapest, Hungary

Parliament building

Dad safely arrived last night, long trip for him, Nelson to Amsterdam via Singapore and Zurich, then Amsterdam where he spent the day before arriving here at 11 pm, making it over 48 hours of travel. Couple of drinks, so a late night. 

This morning we caught the Hop on- Hop off bus, we mostly just stayed on, but a good way to get a feel for the city. Budapest is beautiful, old buildings, the river Danube, Buda on one side and Pest on the other. Budapest became one combined city in 1873.

After lunch a cruise on the river. Then the rain started, pelted down unfortunately so time for a rest at the hotel.

We decided to partake in a Budapest tradition, 'taking the baths'. The Romans first built baths here so they could utilise the thermal springs. The New baths that were constructed during the Turkish period, around 1560, served both bathing and medicinal purposes. So, a big tradition Only recently are there mixed baths, previously there were days for men and days for women.

The dome ceiling

Dad and I found the Kiraly Medicinal Baths, dating back from 1560. I decided to drive, a mission in itself but went fine. We got to the address, a very nondescript door, so very surprised to find this was indeed the place! Oh my goodness. It was partly like stepping into the 16th century, and partly into what a mental institution must have felt like 60 years ago. White tiles everywhere, hoses, funny old wooden benches, high ceilings. All felt a bit foreign, but we followed the signs, went upstairs first to get changed, then a rabbit warren of changing rooms, cabins, bathrooms, up the stairs, down the stairs, until we finally found the baths. (Didn't help I had my glasses off, so blind as a bat). The baths were spectacular. The 'room' was perhaps 30 metres in diameter, with a high old dome with little glass insets to let in the light. The plaster around the room was seriously coming away. The water was about 40 degrees, a slight sulphur smell. Off the main bath were a couple of smaller ones, and tucked in a corner a sauna, close to 50 degrees, which we endured for about 5 min, followed by a quick plunge pool. A very unique experience to say the least.

The baths

Entrance to the Baths??

Day 47, Graz to Budapest, Hungary

Frustrating start to the morning. I decided I should check what the Toll charge situation is in Hungary, didn't want a repeat of the other day and get another fine. Very sophisticated system, need to register on line and buy toll online, per week/ month/year. All very confusing, and time consuming, but finally got away at 11. 

And I went to three countries today! Austria, Slovenia and Hungary. 

The drive was just long and boring, straight road, got down to 18 degrees, so that was a bit chilly! 

Trouble finding the hotel, as GPS picked up the wrong street, why names two streets the same in a city I don't know. Anyway, took me 11 k's the wrong direction, but never mind.

Found it, feet up, beer, and then find some dinner before picking dad up at 11.00.

It's a lovely 25 degrees, so nice to be out in. The area I am in feels nice, it's very close to the centre, lots of little cafes and restaurants, but residential as well. Looking forward to exploring the city tomorrow. Now...to the airport to pick up dad.

Day 46, Graz, Austria

Outdoor Museum

Another nice day in Graz. Spent some time this morning organising and booking my Asia part of the trip as had been waiting for a) good wifi and b) not being so blimmen hot I couldn't be bothered doing anything and c) having some time and not needing to 'hit the road ' 

So, booked what I wanted to. This afternoon went to an Open Air Museum, all about Austria in the last 200-300 years. All interesting , but wouldn't you know it. For 6 weeks I have carried my rain jacket with me everywhere, and the day I decide to take it out of the car as I am rearranging luggage, it buckets down and I'm at an outdoor museum! Grr

Next were the caves, a wee town nearby. I had just missed the start of the tour, but if I drove to the other entrance I could catch them there. She phoned ahead to make sure they'd wait for me. The other entrance was 26 k's away, but found it fine. Was greeted by a lovely gent in his early 70's, who ensured I had something warm to wear and he would take me to the group. He explained things on the way (he was a guide too he told me) and so it was just us for about 10 minutes before we met the group. He told me he was going further in as he had some technical issues to sort and I was welcome to come with him rather than the group. Yes, why not, private tour, and his English was good. He took me to the most awe inspiring huge cave, 40 meters high, 80 wide and 120 long. He had to sort out some music problems (music I thought) and so, have a wander about if you like. So I walked down the steps, as we had entered from the top. Spotlights in place, beautiful stalagmites. Then the music started, he'd obviously fixed it. Absolutely breathtaking, to be there, all alone, the best acoustics, it brought me close to tears! Goosebumps stuff and not due to the coolness in the cave. When the rest of the group caught up, my 'guide' gave me the option of going back with him or continuing the tour with the others. I felt I had experienced this at its best, and joining the group would not add to the event, so I walked back with him.

Too difficult to photograph, shame

Stalagmites

Day 45, Graz, Austria

Graz

Loving Austria! The town I am staying in, well city, is the second largest in Austria after Vienna. It is actually the birthplace of Arnold Schwarzenegger. I had booked for two nights in my apartment but added another night, it's nice to not have to pack up and move all the time and the apartment is comfortable.

Grocery shopping this morning, as I can cook my own dinner tonight, good one. Then into town to have a look around. Nice town,old. The most noticeable is a hill plonked right in the middle of town, with an old stronghold on top, and nearby a clock tower that looks like it's been chopped off at the neck!

The clock tower from 1256

Inside the 'hill' are numerous tunnels which were used in the war as bomb shelters. 

The Dome

Second unusual sight is a glass 'dome' in the middle of the river Mur, which runs through the city. It holds a cafe and a very small amphitheater, so had some afternoon tea there.

It's great to be able to make myself understood; my German has stayed with me thankfully. I got my glasses fixed, as the other day I dropped them and popped a lens out. I had my spare pair, but needed to get the other ones fixes, so all sorted.

It got to 32 today, so much better than high30's. When it cooled down a bit tonight I went for a walk; my feet have not really cooperated this last week, but it was so pleasant to be out in the 'cooler' evening!

Steps up to the strong hold

Day 44, Tricesimo Italy to Graz, Austria!

Destination Austria

Well, first have to write about the great part of my day...

My hosts' son appeared this morning, spoke some English and keen to practice so we had a great chat about travel, their business (being an 'Agriturismo' they also have a farm) and how hard it is in the heat and no irrigation (too expensive). The hottest and driest it's been in 15 years.

So that and the lovely breakfast with fresh fruit made for a good start. The drive towards Austria was stunning, no other word to describe it. The Alps rise sharply and every which way I looked was beautiful. I tried to stop a couple of times for photos, but quite hard to capture. At one point I was between a couple of tunnels, looked left and went, wow, picked upmy camera and just pointed and clicked before going into the next tunnel(nowhere to stop) and it turned out great.

Point & click, lucky turnout!

At one point I stopped, took some pictures and thoroughly enjoyed it being 27 degrees and so pleasant to get out of the car. I was all philosophical and thinking, I may be getting poorer every day (well, I am, spending and not earning), but I am really getting richer, for all the things I am seeing.

So, all happy thoughts and experiences. 

Quiet roads

Next the Austrian border. I was intrigued, sign says 'Austria 1 km', then 'Austria 500 meters'. I  am looking and waiting for the sign 'Austria ' to take a picture. Didn't happen, so I am thinking wow, just like that, new country! Then a checkpoint, and I got pulled over. Papers, drivers license, all good. Then the bloody bombshell, I didn't have a special sticker to drive on the motorway in Austria. I had totally missed the sign it seems. Argh...€120 fine. Shit, there went all the good stuff. Bread and water for the next few day!

Add caption

Found my accommodation straight away, a sweet little apartment, kitchen and everything. Clouds forming, rumbling, thunder, lightning and next hail! Honest to goodness hail. A nice cool 26 degrees for a walk later, pleasant change indeed. 

Day 43, Gardone Riviera to Tricesimo, Italy

Agriturismo at it's best

A break through in the last few days; I can make myself understood enough in Italian when ordering food and coffee without having to point at the food, haha! 

A nice drive again, first on the big motorways, then decided to veer off and take the more scenic route as it gets a bit monotonous on the motorway. I'm in a very agricultural part of North Italy , lush and every field is full, grapes, corn, and that's about all I recognised, but very tidy, clean, cared for look about everything.

Most of the drive was on the flat, not a hill to be seen, and then suddenly I could see the Austrian Alps in the distance, all sharp angles.

Part of Tricesimo, Alps in background

The accommodation tonight is rural, unfortunately the address they had put on the website directed me to another place, same road name but no B&B, so that was fun, but all part of it. 

A quiet afternoon, last night didn't get me much sleep due to the heat in the room, I tossed and turned all night. Hopefully tonight is better.

Crazy!!

My last night in Italy for a couple of weeks, Austria tomorrow!

Day 42, Gardone Riviera, Italy

A quiet day, swim in the lake before breakfast, beautiful, then walked to the Botanical Gardens. Host had told me it was a kilometre, but felt like it took forever, looked it up later and was 2.5 there and then back. Which matters when it's 41 degrees. 

Anyway, the gardens were very nice, spent a couple of hours, a little cooler there, nice wee ponds.

Home to put my feet up, and then another swim in the lake, well, 4 swims. The water is just so nice to get into, not freezing but refreshing, so you get in for 5, cool down a bit, read for 10, then back in, lovely.

The hotel is just lovely, very hospitable hosts, it's a family run plce, son, who speaks good English, his wife and his mum and dad. And they are always around, one or the other, Ciao as you're coming or going, nice and friendly. 

Day 41, Nonantalo to Gardone Riviera, Lake Garda, Italy

Lake Garda

Today another jackpot hit. I am staying at a little lakeside hotel, at Gardone Riviera, right on the edge of Lake Garda in North Italy. The lake is the largest in Italy and a really busy holiday destination, but because it's so large and there are so many towns, it doesn't feel crowded.

The drive here was pretty, a large part of it along the lake, all little towns and pretty views. I realise with some sadness that my time in Italy is coming to a close, a few more days this week and then in a few weeks time Venice with dad, but that will be the last.

My accommodation last night was really quite mediocre, and when I went to have a swim first thing this morning I was told the pool was not open, grr.

I have mentioned before how it's the welcome from the host that just makes all the difference. Today for me reiterated that. The hotel is simple, but the host walked me to my room , offered a coffee downstairs and told me about a tiny wee beach just 100 meters from the hotel. Simple things make the difference for sure. The swim was so refreshing, the water was warm, even for a huge lake like this one. I like the place so much I have decided to stay another night.

Walkway along the lake

Day 40, Assisi to Nonantola, Italy

View from my room

Funny how one night can be so different to another. Last night in a busy town, enjoying live music and tonight 300 k's north, at a small Agriturismo B&B. Where the horses are in the paddock, some chickens and no doubt a rooster that's going to wake me up at some god forbidden hour.

Plus...a pool. Bliss. However , it appears to be open to the locals and tonight is disco night I think. Michael Jackson being played full blast and plenty of people here, so an odd contrast. No doubt the party will last well into the night.

A very quiet day really, a beautiful drive here, Umbria is a lovely province, very scenic and rural, so drove a good 200 k's through hills, countryside and past lakes without seeing too many towns. Tonight I am staying close to Bologna, slowly making my way north and soon East towards Budapest, in a town called Nonantola. Sometimes (well, most times) hit jackpot with my towns and accommodation, other times it's just a town and just a room. Like, unfortunately, tonight, but dinner made up for it. 

Dinner out, which is always interesting, as I really have no idea what the menu is all about, and don't want to go for the safe pizza or pasta dishes. So tonight an English speaking waiter was pulled towards me to help choose my seafood dish. Oh my goodness, absolutely beautiful, haven't eaten that well for a while, just so fresh, and a huge variety.

Dinner, all seafood, yum!

Day 39, Assisi, Italy

Jazz session

Sometimes, if you sit very very still, you can catch the tiniest of breezes, which at the time feel welcome like air conditioning. It's 7.15 in the evening and I am in Perugia at the Jazz festival with a cold Heineken, and it's still 38 in the shade.

But the atmosphere is great, the town is really humming. Whole groups with matching T shirts, Birklee to Umbria  (the province) and they're all here for the Jazz. The views are spectacular, Perugia is on top of a hill, and it's old, so beautiful buildings and Piazzas for the jam sessions.

Very pleased I decided to come this way for the festival, so worth it. Drive home in the dark (that's a first here) was hilarious as I went around the same block 3 times before I realised I was taking a wrong turn! Bless my GPS.

Photos tomorrow, this will do for tonight x

Day 38, San Lazzaro to Assisi, Italy

Sunset over Assisi

Today it has been 5 weeks since I arrived in Italy! So much seen and so much enjoyed it! And.....today I went to a mall. It's the first one I have seen here. The reason I went was my iPad, it started playing up and wouldn't let me save my photos. Spent a bit of time getting frustrated with it myself, so Googled Apple Store and luckily there was one on my way north today. 

So, I left before 8 after a nice farewell breakfast from Gregory and found the drive out much easier then the drive into Agerola a week ago, possibly because I had left early to avoid traffic. Anyway, found the mall, and the store, but darn, I had to wait an hour for an appointment.
What's a girl to do in a mall waiting for an hour! Yes, spent some money. And thank goodness, lovely Antonio at Apple Store managed to fix my problem with the iPad. Then back on the road for a 350 k drive to my next stop, a tiny town called Assisi, close to Perugia, where I had hoped maybe it'd be a little cooler, but no, 39 today. A beautiful swim in the pool and then a walk around the historic town in the evening, lovely.

Assisi Piazza

Day 37, San Lazzaro, Italy - visit to Naples

Well, I got to Naples. Reason I say that is because I got up early this morning and got to the piazza to catch the 8.15 bus to Naples, only to find the shop that sells tickets doesn't open till 8.30. That makes sense, not! So, back home and caught the 12.00 one instead. It takes however an hour and 40 to get there so the better part of the day was done. Never mind, you go with the flow. 

I found Naples a heaving hot mass of bodies, scooters everywhere weaving in and out of traffic, everyone tooting and cursing. Whereas Rome is a real tourist city, geared to a lot of different nationalities visiting, Naples is just a real, busy, working, Italian city. A raw, nothing pretentious about it city. To get on a scooter here you would have to be local, never in the world would you want to tackle that as a tourist. The traffic is mental, going around the roundabouts, cars 3 deep and no one gives way, and then the bus squeezes in.

There's a roundabout in there somewhere

I found the Castle Nuovo and visited that. Have a look at the photo of the cannon ball stuck in the bronze door of the castle, from the siege on the castle in 1503

Spot the cannon ball

But unfortunately not much at all in English, so although it all looked really interesting, I couldn't quite get the details!

I did try Napolitan pizza for a late lunch, as it's meant to be the best in the world, and yes, mine was very yummy.

Was mighty pleased though to hop back on the bus back to San Lazzaro.

The Castle Nuovo