Wednesday 16 September 2015

Day 99, Fes, Morocco


Donkey coming through 
Fes is the oldest city in Morocco, dating from the 8th century, founded by the 5th descendant of the prophet Mohamed, consisting of a 9th century, a 14th century and a 19th century part. First thing this morning we visited the Jewish quarter where up to 14,000 Jews  lived up to 1948, when the holy land was returned to them. Our guide for the day was superb, very knowledgeable but with a great sense of humour and timing. Told us so many interesting things about Fes, but also Morocco in general, fascinating facts about harems of all things, and how they were actually political manoeuvres more than anything, showing not only power but also ensuring solidarity from the women's fathers, being influential men. The women themselves were carefully chosen by the tribe, ensuring the brightest and cleverest one would be chosen, to try and become one of the king's 4 wives. A lot of scheming and plotting would have gone on. 
Beautiful mosaics

Unesco supports the artists in Fes, ensuring the old arts don't die out. A co-operative is financially supported by Unesco, paying the artists a fair wage and good working conditions and apprentices are taught the old crafts, among them the mosaic art. We visited the workshop, which was very interesting, and off course all bought something little to take home. Next a tannery, smelled terrible, a copper plate shop, silk weavers.....and on it went.
Delicious Moroccan lunch 
The medina and souks are so fascinating though. A cacophony of sounds, smells, sights; donkeys being used to carry goods in the narrow alleyways, live chickens (and some not so) sheep, herbs and spices, food cooking, the tiniest 'shops', old men hand sewing dresses. Alleys that never see the sunlight as there is permanent scaffolding propping the houses up, don't forget these have been here since early 800's. It's an overwhelming experience, absolutely crazy, but so cool. You feel part of it, this feels real, the hustle and bustle of live in Fes. The alleys are winding, narrow, a lot have dead ends. Without a guide you'd be lost in 5 minutes.
Cats everywhere!!
A very tired group returned to the Riad for showers before a quick dinner out. A great day!

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