Day 205, Hilltribe Village walk, Thailand

It's hot!

Happy 2016 to everyone!

Another average night sleep, but what a beautiful place to wake up though.

Breakfast with pancakes, a nice surprise, then off on our walk again, just 2.5 hours this morning, through some beautiful countryside. I walked with Denise, a cheerful Swiss girl, and Amy, my roomy, while keeping an eye out for Peter & Nina from Australia. It was an easier walk today and fun, the sun was warm and the scenery pretty, what more could you ask for. It has  been in Lamnankok National Park that we have been hiking and staying in, a very scenic part of North Thailand.

Beautiful views today 

After lunch and some birthday cake as it was Suzie's 60th birthday we headed back to Chiang Rai to our guesthouse. Bliss, dirty washing to the laundry, only 100 baht, about 4 dollars for a bagful. Then off to The White Temple, a most unusual Buddhist temple built just 20 years ago.

Wat Rong Khun is a unique temple that stands out through the white color and the use of pieces of glass in the plaster, sparkling in the sun. The white color signifies the purity of the Buddha, while the glass symbolizes the Buddha’s wisdom and the Dhamma, the Buddhist teachings. The Wat Rong Khun was designed by Chalermchai Kositpipat, a famous Thai visual artist. To date the temple is not finished. Eventually there will be nine buildings including an ubosot, a hall to enshrine Buddhist relics, a meditation hall, the monks living quarters and an art gallery. It is a very unique looking building indeed.

White temple

Tonight we went out for dinner, Tracey and Amy are leaving our group tomorrow, so an extra special dinner. Afterwards we walked to the beautiful flower show out in the public gardens and finally we all lit lanterns and let them float away, a Thai tradition to encourage good luck and help your wishes come true in the new year. Very moving indeed. 

Lantern ceremony 

Day 204, Hilltribe Village Walk, a Thailand

The waterfall 

Most of us tossed and turned all night trying to get comfortable. The rooster got carried away at a very early hour too, so by 6.30 we were all up. Unfortunately we didn't start the track until 9.30, which was a bit of a shame as it got quite warm again by then.

On the track

The first hill was straight up, the paths are pretty non existent and at such an angle you're virtually crawling up the mountain. It levelled out quite quickly though after that it was a steady climb up, and up and up. We must have climbed for a steady couple of hours before a slow descent and some flatter parts. It was good going today, I was used to my pack and although hot and sweaty it wasn't too uncomfortable. We stopped for lunch, fried rice in banana leaves followed by Oreo biscuits, yum! Then the hard stuff started really; first a hard decline on concrete road in full sunlight (hot!!) and then the mummy hill that Sar told us about yesterday; 35 minutes straight up on the concrete road, trick that was hard work. Peter, the Australian guy has a bung knee, he's done so well doing the track mm but the going downhill was just doing him in, so we managed to flag down a ute that was going our direction and Peter hitched a ride with him. Unfortunately he didn't go all the way up and Pete had to struggle to the top. Finally finally....we got to our homestay up on the hill, after 6 hours. A lovely view from up the top. 

Once cooled down some of us went to the waterfall, a 15 minute walk and we were rewarded with both a huge and beautiful waterfall as well as a refreshing dip in the water.

Amy & Lauren on the track

Shower was a cold one again, sleeping arrangement same as last night, but everyone is in much better spirits, probably because we have the hardest part out of the way. A beer by the campfire and dinner afterwards, another early night I would think.

Day 203, Hill Tribe Village hike, Thailand

First stop on the track

Such are the delights of sleeping in one big room with all the others; one girl was a snorer....We had great fun trying to turn her over and stop her snoring, but she was quite persistent. One fortunate thing is that she is not coming on the hike with us, so won't keep us awake for the next couple of nights, although we will miss her as she's a real laugh.

Phew

We had a drive first so didn't start the hike until 11.15. Pack was heavier than anticipated, probably about 8 kilos, but off course we're carrying water as well. So the track we're doing is through the hill tribe villages, staying in the simplest villages and houses. The track started steep, straight up pretty much. Sad had told us 'two baby hills' today. Well, if they were baby hills, I hate to see the mummy hill tomorrow. The heat was intense, so within minutes the sweat was literally pouring off us all. We had Sar with us as well two porters to help us; we negotiated the stream at least 20 times. We had a packed lunch with us from the guesthouse, packed in huge banana leaves was a beautiful stir fry. We carried on in the heat, I must have lost a couple of kilos just sweating! The terrain was rough going, and it wasn't just me who thought this. But at the same time it was pretty too and as we got nearer to the village we could tell the signs of cultivation; pineapples planted and vegetables too

After 4 hours we arrived at the village, Akha. Our accommodation is as basic as it comes, this is The Bamboo Hilton for sure! One large hut for all of us, thin mattresses on the bamboo floor. 

The bathroom consists of two toilets, squat style, one of them has a pipe from the ceiling with an on-off valve for cold water showers. But it was so refreshing anyway!

Toilet & shower

After a cold beer (yes, a fridge on our 'deck', stocked with cold beers and water) we went for a walk around 'the village', which was very small, but the people were all so pleasant and welcoming and some of the group played soccer with the kids. We played cards with the kids and after dinner an early night! 

Day 202, Mae Salong Don to Sansei Homestay, North of Chiang Rai,Thailand

Tea plantation 

We had a busy day! After breakfast (just Amy and me at a very basic restaurant but tasty) we left again by songwhaes, a rumbling ride. First stop was a tea plantation where we got to taste different teas, complete with tiny little tasting cups and bowls. Next up, a good hours drive to Maesaie Markets, near the Burma border, where we had lunch before carrying on to The Golden Triangle, which is the corner where Burma, Thailand and Laos meet on the river Mekong. A hefty trade in opium used to take place here, which was explained in more detail at the opium museum visit, very appropriate to the area obviously. An interesting history is this area.

Looking towards Burma 

We decided to hire a longboat to take us all to Laos, where we went to have a walk and a beer. Strange to think we visited another country for half an hour! 

We finally, after many stops and interesting things to see on the way, arrived at our homestay. The girls are all sharing one large room, and the guys another. Thin mattresses on the floor with a blanket and pillow, lined up next to each other. Shower time, all very basic, but it doesn't matter, then yay, a cold beer and dinner. We had a lovely welcome ceremony by our host, a prayer to keep us save on our track and then traditional Thai dancing, just for us, as obviously no one else is staying here besides us. Dinner was served while sitting on a huge mat, scrumptious.

Welcome ceremony 

We are starting to gel as a group (bit late, but better late then never) and had a hilarious game of cards with Sar our guide; Bullshit and Spoons.  

Day 201, Chiang Mai to

Our group 

This morning's mission was to fit 5 days worth of gear into a small pack, including sleeping bag, hiking shoes, clothes, raincoat, fleece and toiletries. We need to carry this pack ourselves on our three day hike, so mind how much you take. As you may remember my pack was only 12.8 k's when I left NZ, so I already travel light, so deciding what to leave behind was a bit of a struggle, but I got there.

We left on a fancy pansy bus with reclining seats and refreshments served for a four hour drive to Chiang Rai (not pot be confused with Chiang Mai). After arrival there and lunch, we swapped for songthaews (see pictures), which are interesting modes of transport up through the winding hills for over an hour. We arrived in Mae Salong Nok, a Chinese community, only about 15 kilometres as the crow flies from the border with Burma.

Mae Salong Nok

The community was established to cultivate opium, but now grows tea. We went for a walk into town to stretch our legs and came across the most interesting structure; A Ferris wheel built entirely of wood. It was operated by a couple of enthusiastic young guys, and it was so entertaining to stand and watch the children squealing with delight and a healthy amount of fear as they spun the wheel around by hand.

The Ferris wheel 

There was a queue, but no barrier to stand behind and I'm guessing Health & Safety would have had something to say about this back home to spoil the fun!

Not sure when I can post again, as we go to a Homestay tomorrow and start the hike after that for 3 days, so guess there won't be much wifi on the track. Catch you when I can. 

Day 200, Chiang Mai, Thailand

My new friend 

Boxing Day today and this morning we took off for Maetang Park, an elephant sanctuary. It took an hour and a half drive north and we watched an interesting documentary on the way about the park.

The park has been in operation since 1995 and takes in rescued elephants from various places. There are numerous elephants that came after logging was stopped in Thailand, as they were used in the logging industry. There are ones that were injured in land-mines in nearby Burma, a lot of blind ones from tourists' flashlights, others at the hands of humans who worked with them. One particularly sad story was a mummy elephant who gave birth while working and her baby slipped down the mountain and was killed. She then refused to keep working as she was so sad and her keeper poked her in her eye to get her to move, blinding her and when she later defended herself when he again abused her, he damaged the other eye.

After their bath

In total there are 66 elephants, all but three kept in open areas with no fences. Most are domesticated so are happy to be around visitors to the sanctuary. 

We got to feed them and bath them, although they're pretty good at doing that themselves; their trunk holds 8 litres of water which they use to spray over their backs. It was so special being up close to them, touching their hide (very soft considering it's 2.5 centimetres thick) and trunk. We had one moment where we were walking around and a couple, although about 50 meters away, got agitated because they couldn't see the baby of their pack. They were making lots of noise and stomping about and our guide very quickly moved us into a safe area. Just reminds you they are wild animals after all.

Last Boy show

Tonight we went to a Lady Boy show; a cabaret with transgender & transvestite males. A great performance, impossible to think some of these stunning girls are actually guys! Great bodies, great boobs, and no package in sight, unbelievable! A very unique Boxing Day!

Day 199, Chiang Mai, Thailand

High in the treetops 

Hohoho, Merry Christmas. I have never had a more unlike Christmas start to the day! Waking up in
a sleeper train in Thailand. I had a surprisingly good sleep on the train, a solid 8 hours at least; it must have been the rocking motion of the train. Like I said last night, the beds were excellent size, a large single, and comfortable. So awake at 6.00, time for a cuppa and then a very efficient man came storming through the cabin, stripped each bed and got all the bedding back in the right place. He was one busy man! 

Amy, me, Denise & Lauren

We arrived in Chiang Mai about 7.30 and straight to the hotel for breakfast. Five of us, all girls, had decided to go zip lining. For those of you who don't know what that is; it's basically a flying fox, going from one platform high in the treetops to another. Except you've got a harness on to stop you from falling and at each platform are people to 'catch ' you. Super exciting, some of you may know that heights aren't my favourite, so this was outside my comfort zone.

Real poinsettia shrub
Not the potted variety 

I absolutely loved it though, as did the other 4, Amy, Siobjan, Lauren and Denise. We (meaning me) nearly peed our pants a few times laughing, Lauren always seemed to go backwards for some reason. We ended with a 40 meter abseil. Back to base to get the tshirt, then lunch on a lovely deck setting, so that was Christmas lunch for us. We didn't get back till later in the arty, a lovely shower, walk into town, later some dinner and the night markets. Chiang Mai is a really nice town, has a great feel to it, much nicer than the big city of Bangkok. It is all the way in North Thailand. 

Day 198, Kanchanaburi to Chaing Mai

Sunrise on the Kwai

Christmas Eve and we are on an overnight train from Ayutthaya to Chiang Mai.

So last night on a boat and tonight on a train. Didn't get an awful lot of sleep last night though; we had skinny thin mattresses and it was extremely hot, plus some of our members had fun snoring! 

Coffee while watching the sunrise from the back deck was stunning and next was breakfast. Back to the guest house in Kanchanaburi so we could all shower, which was bliss after all the 'perspiring' we had done. Quick catch up with wifi and then away for a two hour drive to Ayutthaya where we had the option to either visit 3 temples or stay at the hotel and go swimming. Yes, I hate to admit but I chose the latter, together with 3 others. A very refreshing swim, absolutely lovely after the heat, then time for some dinner and a beer, after all it is Christmas Eve!

Beer, beer, beer, pizza

We caught the night train at 8.00, and it is so clean and tidy and well organised. My bed is huge, already made up with sheets and pillow, a wee curtain for privacy.

Amy gracefully took the
top bunk

We've all put our Christmas wishes out for tomorrow; did we want to go biking or zip lining, cooking class or white water rafting. Oh the choices! 

Day 197, Kanchanaburi, Thailand

View from the river

After breakfast this morning we headed to the river and boarded our home for today and tonight; a longboat! We are motoring now, gently down the river Kwai. The boat is actually 3, or 4 counting the tug boat! The two big boats contain toilets (known as Happy Rooms in Thailand), a bar, Karaoke tonight, and the dining room. Next boat has the sleeping area; we're all on mats and tonight the mosquito nets and sleeping bags will be out. The last boat is small and has 4 easy loungers on it for snoozing in! There's also rubber tubes. A blissful breeze on the river keeps the temperature pleasant.

On the boat

After an hour or so we walked up to a temple, 700 step, excellent views up top although a little hazy. Lunch was superb, served by our own cook on the boat.

A pleasantly lazy afternoon, another stop at a temple, more steps to work off lunch, and the first good coffee for ages.

Steps & more steps

Back on the boat, floating in a tube behind the boat, chatting quietly with others on the group, reading and finally dinner and Karaoke, a great social night. 

Day 196, Kanchanaburi, Thailand

Erawan waterfall 

First up this morning was the museum dedicated to the Thai-Burma railway, 415 kilometres  built over a period of about 16 months by Allied Forces prisoners of war and Asian labourers.

POW cemetery 

The living conditions were atrocious and 12621 POW's died. The war cemetery was across the road, where English, Australian and Dutch servicemen are laid to rest. A very moving experience.

Next into a van and into Erawan National Park and waterfalls. Wow, what a most spectacular part of Thailand! There are 7 waterfalls all together, the top one being a 1500 meter walk up! Meaning some 'clambering' was involved over rocks and a fair bit of awkward stepping, but the (very hot) walk up was worth it. Back down the bottom (why is the walk actually harder than going up?) we all had a wonderfully refreshing swim in the pool by waterfall number two. The strange thing being that there a a huge number of fish in the pools, some quite large. So when you are swimming, and especially when you stop moving, these fish come and nibble on you, a very unusual and unpleasant experience! Getting out without stepping on the fish was even a challenge.

Amy, Denise, me and Nina

Back at the guest house we had a free evening to look forward to, so some of us went and had massages before dinner, but Amy, Denise, Peter, Nina and I had a drink first and then a very tasty Thai meal.

Day 195, Bangkok to Kanchanaburi, Thailand

The bridge 

As I am writing this I am sitting drinking a beer, on a wee terrace, right on the bank of the river Kwai. First official day to the tour, and spent the morning with Amy trying to get her visa sorted, something went wrong with her dates and we first went to the Immigration Department, who couldn't help and then the Australian Embassy, which luckily was close by, but again no help. Anyway, she kinda figured out what needs doing so wasn't a total waste of time. Afters we had enough time left for a massage before meeting the rest of the group, so we twisted each other's arm and enjoyed another treat.

The River

This afternoon the group traveled by public transport to Kanchanaburi, the town where The Bridge goes over The River Kwai. It actually took a while to get here and the bus was ridiculously hot, but the town is very nice from what we saw. We walked along the bridge as the sun was setting, and it was a special moment. I actually made a point last week to watch a documentary about the building of the railway track by prisoners of war during the Second World War.  

It was extremely sad, but interesting too, and of course The Bridge Over The River Kwai is a well known movie depicting this sorrowful story. Being here (and tomorrow visiting the cemetery and museum) is very special indeed.

Interesting mode of transport 

We're staying at a lovely guesthouse, like I said right on the river and dinner on the river bank. 

Plenty of laughs with the group, so that's a bonus.

Day 194, Bangkok. Thailand

Last day in Bangkok for a couple of weeks, thank goodness, not mph city sorry to say. Even our Intrepid guide said tonight, either temples or shopping in Bangkok (he forgot the massage!).

Walked to Khao San road with Kelly as I wanted a couple of tshirts to take with me on this trip, and she needed a couple of things before leaving this afternoon. 

Back and caught up with Lynn after her naughty night out, haha and hung around the pool until they caught a taxi to leave for the airport and flights home. Neat to meet and great company the last two days.

Then time to meet my roomy for the next two weeks. Amy is 21 and from Brisbane and easy to chat with, so it's good to find another happy roommate. We went and got a beer and then time to meet the rest of the tour group, the 4 Americans I had already met, 2 other younger girls, one from Ireland, one from Switzerland, and then an older couple from Aussie and a couple of singles my ages. So a nice mixed bunch. We all had dinner together and plenty of laughs already so I think it's going to be a fun few weeks. 

Day 193, Bangkok, Thailand

Thai dancers at the silk museum 

Met a couple of ladies this morning who have just finished the Intrepid trip I am about to start. I was sitting in reception waiting for my taxi when I happen to overhear them ask for a taxi to the same place. 

Christmas lights 

Me and my big ears; so I asked if they wanted to share my taxi. So we did, and ended up spending the day, which was fun. We went to Jim Thompson's House and Silk Museum. Jim was an American who back in the 50's and 60's was very much responsible for the silk production and use revival in Thailand. He was an architect, who designed and built a remarkable house here in Bangkok, so it was very interesting to have a look though. Lunch afterwards with Lynn (Canadian) and Kelly (from Auckland) and then back for a swim.

Silk spinning 

I also briefly met 4 others (Americans) who are on my tour, and had a quick chat.

Back to Khao San road for a body massage; I could get used to this! Sat and had some street food with a beer and watched the craziness that is Khao San road, full of backpackers and other young holiday makers, drinking. I will be happy to get out of Bangkok and see some more of Thailand. 

Day 192, Bangkok, Thailand

Reclining Buddha

Visited the beautiful 'Reclining Buddha' today. A huge, .46 metre long gold leave Buddha, housed in Wat Pho, a royal temple from the 16th century. The temple complex houses the biggest collection of Buddha images in Thailand and is very impressive.

Wat Pho

It was relatively quiet so very enjoyable. The Buddha was so big, impossible to get properly into a photo, although that didn't stop people trying. When entering the temples, shoes need to be removed, knees covered as well as shoulders, but most places are so organised they have robes ready to put on. I got a tuk tuk to my next destination.

Buddhas everywhere 

It's so funny, a taxi from hotel to Wat Pho was 70 baht, then outside Wat Pho the tuk tuk drivers are ready to offer to take you to other places. So i decided to do just that, and I was going much less than the mornings ride. I asked how much, 300 baht. Funny man. I said 100 and had to be persistent and walk away to get it for that. Some might say I could have got it cheaper, but hey, they have to make a living. 

I went and had a facial, very nice and relaxing and it had been a long while since my last one. A nice walk back to he hotel and a swim, another couple of days and the tour starts. 

Day191, Bangkok, Thailand

Flowers at the market 

Not a very exciting day. Decided to go to the MBK centre, which is a huge mall. I needed a few essentials, which took a while to get together. It is near impossible to find a body lotion (or moisturiser for that matter) that doesn't have whitening agents in them. They all claim to give you beautiful white skin in no time at all, just what I do not need. Funny world isn't it, we still try and get some colour on our skin, and other people want to whiten it.

Next attempt was hair colour, oh boy, I didn't like the look of the pictures on box, haha. Asian ladies with orangish blond hair, not a good look, so I passed up on that.

Watering the crops (yesterday)

Other than that the experience was average; almost every single shop assistant was either putting her make up on or on her cellphone, no one interested in customers. 

Taxi back to hotel and got stuck into my book by the pool

Sunset over Bangkok 

Tonight, street food! Wandered down the road, where the locals get there 'take always'. Beautiful big dish of Thai noodles with vegetables, fresh as can be, 20 baht, just under a dollar. Very tasty indeed.

Day 190, Bangkok, Thailand

Biking Bangkok 

After Madrid and Seville, I am hooked on bike tours. It's a cool way to see a new city, so today I did just that. The company was called Co Van Kissel, obviously a Dutchman, who started the company 30 years ago. Of the nine of us on the bike tour, 6 were Dutch and 2 were German. I must say, a most boring lot, argh!! Not a smile or a laugh from any of them and it really was a splendid tour. We met a 1 o'clock and started with going through Chinatown, onto a longboat through the canals and ended up almost out in the country. We came across a funeral celebration; a most important monk passed away a few days ago and there are funeral ceremonies held all over Thailand. We were invited to join in and eat with the mourners, huge amounts of food was prepared. Sharing food is good for Karma, as is eating it, so who were we we to argue. We were welcomed with open arms, lots of old Thai ladies encouraging us to take whatever we wanted. And this is the reason I travel!

Funeral crashing 

The houses along the canals are so interesting; lots of them ramshackle sheds, others quite beautiful with huge carved doors and peaked roofs, right next to a house that was on a huge lean, about to topple over. But everywhere people happily waved at us. 

The tour included an early dinner, which was actually an awkward affair as hardly anyone talked to each other; after I made numerous attempts I finally gave up.

That's a truck engine on
the longboat! 

We got back at 6.00, so a long bike ride. Then no taxi driver wanted to go near my hotel as the road was closed due to the funeral so I ended up walking back, 50 minutes, so exercise well and truly done. Oh, and off course a swim when back as it was a hot hot day!! But very enjoyable all the same. 

Day 189, Bangkok, Thailand

Street food China Town

Wow, it's hot in Bangkok, I had sort of forgotten about that for some odd reason. Towards the end it got cold in Delhi, so this was a bit of a shock. Temperature today 35, real feel 40. A beautiful breakfast, feeling very spoiled, all included in the room. But first a swim, lovely to wake up to.

Then I was ready to go fa walk and explore a little. I walked down to China Town and back, a couple of hours altogether which was quite enough in the heat.

Chicken anyone?

Funny to walk around the many stalls and not be hassled by the vendors. For a huge city like Bangkok, people are still happy to make eye contact with me, and smile and nod kindly. I stood at one street corner, contemplating how to get across as there were no lights and traffic heavy, when one Thai lady took me gently by the elbow and led me across, full of smiles. What a sweety. Then another elderly gentleman reminded me to carry my pack in the front of me, to avoid pick pockets. And all with a genuine smile.

China town

Another refreshing swim when I got back, feeling very lazy! Definitely be doing more tomorrow.