Day 172, Varanasi, India

Cows everywhere 

I have arrived in the craziest city in the world.

I thought Delhi was full on, but Varanasi is a whole other level of madness. 

There are cows everywhere in the city; wandering across the road, lying on roundabouts, dogs with puppies, I saw some pigs even on the roadside. The traffic is even worse than a Delhi, apparently if you can drive in Varanasi you can drive anywhere, any I believe it too. Coming back from dinner tonight, the three of us, Kathryn, Mary and I, nearly wet ourselves laughing, it was such a hilarious ride back. Being in a rickshaw in the day is one thing, but in the dark? A new level of crazy.

Wedding party 

Ok, start with the train ride on the 14.5 hour sleeper train. Was actually pretty good. Didn't get a chance to sit with an Indian family, as our seats were altogether and allocated. We did manage to get a fairly good night sleep. Morning brought city scenes as well as fields, where men quite happily squatted to do number twos, while having a cigarette, all in view of the train passing. Finally after a three hour delay we arrived in Varanasi, where we all took tuk tuks to the hotel. As described above, the tuk tuk rides are exhilarating. And the sights....animals everywhere, stalls selling food, clothing, right on the the road, men stopping their scooters to take a wee on the side of the road, beggars, cows, rubbish, women collecting rubbish, men with bikes and trailers, piled high with mattresses or coal, barely able to pull the bike due to the weight.

Beggars

After a blissful shower and lunch we walked into town to get our first look at the river Ganges, which is regarded as the Elixir of Life by Hindu, and brings purity to the living and salvation to the dead. There are many rituals performed in and around the river, least of all being the cremation of the dead. Later we went on the river in a boat and did the candle ceremony, lighting a candle and making a wish, putting it in a dish, floating on the river. We watched a big ceremony performance on the ghat (steps towards the river) with fire, being the purest element. Very impressive.

Fire ceremony 

Day 171, Delhi to Varanasi, India

Old Delhi 

First day of the tour, very excited! 

First stop was a mosque where I was asked to have my photo taken with this tiny Indian girl, see, celebrity after all. Next, after getting lost from the group with four of us and taking half an hour to find the group again, we visited a Sikh Temple where 50,000 meals per day are prepared to feed the poor, any religion. The kitchen was small but amazingly efficient, volunteers help out for good karma and visitors are invited to help out too. One thousand kilos of flours a day alone.

Cooking in quantity 

Back on the metro, which is extremely busy and we were squeezed in like sardines at times,  and bought provisions for dinner tonight as we're on a sleeper train to Varanasi for 12 hours. Had a street Chai tea, absolutely beautiful, nothing like we get at home! Mary and I then went fa wander together and came across this shop opening (first we thought there must have been a celebrity visiting as there were so many security guards outside and the red carpet was out). We were cheeky and went in, and were surrounded by the most gorgeous women and fabrics.

Gorgeous girls shopping 

This is obviously where the rich shop, but we were welcomed, offered drinks and nibbles and the women were very happy to chat to us.

Peacock flowers

Tonight a sleeper train to Varanasi, the spiritual capital of India. This will take 12 hours, so should be interesting. Posting this now and catch up tomorrow about the train. 

Day 170, Delhi, India

Flower Sellers

A very quiet day today. Woke up with a shitty sore throat, which didn't get any better during the day. 

At breakfast met another couple of girls that are doing the tour, one from Sydney, and one from Wellington, so after breakfast went for a walk with the four of us, so they could get their bearings a little. Nice girls, both on their own too, so will be good company.

Tour meeting at 6.00, finally! Got to meet all others on tour, mostly Australians, just me and Mary from NZ, couple of Poms. 12 altogether.

I can't wait to get going tomorrow; a sleeper train to Varanasi, the spiritual capital of India. After that a boat trip down the river, with overnight camping, as well as a safari where we could possibly get to see tigers! Not sure on the reliability of wifi at least for the next 4 nights, but will attempt to keep posting on the blog.

Dinner out with everyone, I'm rooming with Mary, nurse from Wellington, so we're both happy about that, we've clicked. 

Stay tuned for updates, exciting 14 days ahead! 

Day 169, Delhi, India

Mehrauli Archeological Park

Jane (the lady from Sydney who also came early for the tour) and I took the metro today to Mehrauli Archeological Park, a huge site with gardens and historical monuments. 

The metro was fairly easy, although extremely crowded. Crossing the road from the metro station to the park was another matter. Waiting for a break in the traffic is the only way to do it, as there are no such thing as pedestrian crossings! The park was huge and after initially being in the not so nice part of it, we found the gardens, which were actually green! It's obviously the place to go for strolls and picnics and a welcome break from the craziness that is Delhi. The sites were interesting, Mosques and burial sites. We got given 'guided tours' by some security guards, all a little odd, and both Jane and I agreed it wasn't the sort of place we would have felt comfortable on our own.

We had dinner at a wee place around the corner, the most basic looking 'restaurant', which is probably a grand term for it. But the food was absolutely delicious and so cheap! A big plate with rice and 4 different dishes with it, naan bread, only $2.60.

And a beer on the rooftop terrace to finish the day. 

Day 168, Delhi, India

Mayhem at the airport 

Early morning Delhi, the sun just up and bathing everything in a golden misty hue. The street vendors getting their wares ready, attempting to sweep the street around their stalls. Men with carts selling tea are busy with people on their way to work. People sleeping on the sidewalks with whole families, are appearing out of their shelters, some preparing something hot on an open fire; night are cool now so a hot drink must be welcomed.

Such was my view this morning on the way to the airport, yet again. And yet again the flight to Srinagar was cancelled, but only after first an hour and a half delay, then another hour and a half waiting for my luggage and then queue along with all the others, not just my flight but another 4 at least, trying to get a refund, as I am not attempting this again tomorrow!

Funny though, being the sole white, blonde female around, again I stood out, and a lot of people recognised me from yesterday's cancelled flight and smiled, acknowledging me and some even came and shook my hand. Felt like a celebrity! But genuinely nice people, someone even kindly lend me his phone so I could ring my host from the houseboat, as he was coming to collect me from the airport, so I wanted to save him the trip.

Back at the hotel, day's almost gone, but I decided to go for a walk and had a Thai massage. Holy Moses, I don't think my body was meant to bend into some of those positions, but it was good anyway.

Day 167, Delhi, India

Dogs sleeping everywhere 

Early start to my day, as I am flying to Srinagar, in Kashmir, where I will be staying on a houseboat. At breakfast I met one of the ladies who will be on my tour starting Thursday so it was nice to have a quick chat before I left.

Temple entrance 

The taxi ride to the airport was certainly much faster than my ride the other night, although I still marvel at 7 lanes on the motorway and at least 10 cars driving side by side. The amount of near misses is staggering, but apart from the tooting there is no shouting or swearing from the drivers.

The weather in Srinagar is not so great, so we sat in the tarmac for close to 2 hours waiting to take off. Thankfully during this time we were given a snack box, which cracked me up, as it was exactly that, chocolate, cake, biscuits and chips!

We finally took off, in the air for an hour and then told Srinagar was still closed and we'd be returning to Delhi. Super! Another hour and a half at the airport waiting to rebook flights for tomorrow and back at the hotel after 3. Not much time for anything else then, but went for a long walk and realised that after only a couple of days here I'm really quite at ease. Apart from yesterday's pestering 'Tourist Officer', people are actually genuinely nice, make eye contact, smile! Once you get used to the dogs lying around everywhere, the crazy traffic, the street vendors cooking, and the smells, it's great! Tonight after dinner (which I had with the other lady on my tour), I quite happily walked down the street on my own, and never felt uncomfortable. The streets are crowded with shoppers still, I thought the markets were a Sunday thing, but Monday night and in full swing.

Shopping Delhi style 

Obviously this is where the purchases are made, shoes, bags, sarongs, jewellery galore. A great bustling atmosphere. 

Day 166, Delhi, India

The Red Fort

Delhi is definitely not for the faint hearted I have come to conclude. I met 'my driver', or his 'brother ' this morning and after confusion,  the taxi took me to The Red Fort area. We had to park a wee way away, so a rickshaw driver took me to the gates. Well, that was an experience too. Through the markets, absolutely jam packed with scooters, tuk tuks and rickshaws, there were times we didn't move for at least 5 minutes, just gridlocked.

Gridlocked 

I still feel like a novelty, definitely not many westerners around! Still, little Indian girls smile happily from other rickshaws. Only when we got closer to the Red Fort did I see a few other foreigners. My rickshaw driver waits for me outside the gates. The Red Fort was totally crowded, being a Sunday it was being visited by plenty of locals. 

Chandni Chowk (market)

My rickshaw driver was there afterwards as promised, as was the taxi driver. Back to the hotel area, but not before a visit to the 'tourist office ', another attempt for me to book something. They were getting rather frustrated with me saying no I think, so a hasty retreat and a sour looking 'tourist officer'. Then a frustrating time trying to find an ATM, while being 'followed' and chatted to by I am sure was someone from the tourist office, trying to find out which hotel I was staying at. Maybe I was getting paranoid but was finally able to 'escape ' into the wee bar/ restaurant where I had dinner last night. Had a wander down a shopping street after lunch which was nice, very crowded but just a Sunday afternoon of people shopping. Dinner on the rooftop garden terrace at the hotel, with fireworks in the distance. Well, hope it's fireworks anyway!

Tomorrow early I am getting out of Delhi for a couple of days, something different to do.

Day 165 Delhi, India

A barber on the sidewalk 

Well, I experienced Delhi for the first day.

Wow, and what an experience it is. I had a great sleep despite being in the noisiest of hotels. It's basic but clean and the staff is friendly, plus I feel super safe which is always a good thing.

Put on my hiking shoes (very sensible in hindsight as the streets are pretty rough!) and set off down the street. I sort of had to stop every minute or so and just soak it in. It's an overwhelming assault on the senses, smell (curry), sight (the shops spilling onto the footpaths, the dogs, begging children, the vendors selling fruit, popcorn, tea and barbers on the sidewalk) and the sound. The sound, oh my, is a constant tooting, horns on cars, bikes, tuk tuks.

Came across two camels & elephants 

After a 30 minute walk someone must have thought I looked extremely lost (and I stand out like a sore thumb with my blond hair) and pointed in a direction and said there were markets that way, about a mile. Not that I was too worried about finding the markets, but he offered to take me in his 'Indian helicopter (tuk tuk) for 5 rupees. I said don't worry about the markets, how much for an hour, just tour around. 20 rupees, 50 cents! Well, as any good driver in a town like this, it all revolves around the mighty tourist dollar and he kindly took me to a bazaar, selling everything Indian you may ever want. I promptly fell in love with a beautiful silk embroidered rug, and could not resist! Next stop was a tourist office, where I did resist, but picked up a great idea for a few days of something different (will explain tomorrow).

Back in the tuk tuk, came across a couple of camels and elephants, just casually on the street!

Was meant to have met my driver again at 6 as he was taking me to a restaurant, but he stood me up, must have found a less cynical tourist, haha. So found my own way to a bar/ restaurant. A beautiful meal, this is real Indian food, just lovely!

Day164, Delhi, India

A barren view over India

A long trip, basically awake for 48 hours before landing in Delhi. A ten hour stop in Dubai took a while, I was actually one of those bums sleeping on the seats, just for 30 minutes, but that tied me over. A bumpy flight out of Dubai, and I felt quite conspicuous as I was the only non-Indian on the plane!

Was met at the airport by my pre-arranged driver which was great as the airport was busy and I would have had to haggle for a good price.

I can't say much about Delhi yet, but one thing is for sure, thank goodness I decided not to drive here as it is total bedlam on the roads. No one sticks to the lanes, it's zigzag everywhere and every driver toots at least every minute. The 26 kilometre drive from airport to hotel took over an hour and I must say I struggled to keep my eyes open. I seem to be staying in the thick of things, market in full swing in the front of the hotel when I checked in. 

That's all I have got, I ordered room service but hope they are quick otherwise I will be asleep before it gets here.

Day 163, on route to Dubai

Singapore from up above 

And I am off again. 8 days back home in Christchurch and it has been an extremely emotional visit, highs and lows like no other.

For those of you not aware, I came back last Wednesday to attend a dear friend's wedding on Saturday and Mel & Eru's wedding was a very special day. Then the saddest news on Thursday that my 27 year old nephew Johnny passed away after a motorcycle accident on the West Coast. My heart goes out to my sister Ineke and her husband John , and Johnny's partner April. How tragedy can strike so cruelly twice in one year is incomprehensible.

I was however fortunate enough to be in New Zealand and was able to spent time with Ien and John and to be there for the funeral after a little reshuffle of flights.

As I am writing this I am 11,000 meters up in the air on a very full flight to Dubai. I left Shaun behind in Sydney as he is one later flight (who made those shoddy bookings? Oops, that was me in my early inexperienced days booking flights).

An 9 hour stop in Dubai coming up for me and then it's India, here I come!

Day 154 & 155, Dubai to Christchurch, New Zealand

And....we're back in Christchurch! Lost pretty much a whole day, as we left on Tuesday am and arrived here Wednesday afternoon. The flight from Dubai to Sydney was absolutely fully booked, so we didn't even sit together. Throw in a few screaming toddlers, 13.5 hours in the air with your front neighbours chair in your lap, and you have the recipe for an awesome time (not). However, it's the only way from A to B. A 3.5 hour stopover in Sydney and then a short 3 hour flight home.

Aaron, Hannah and Keith there to collect us, and a lovely home cooked dinner, plus a quick catch up with Linda & Dean afterwards, and I am ready for bed.

Left the boys and Hannah playing Nintendo, zzzzz.

Day 153, Dubai, United Emirates

On the dhow 

Happy Birthday to my dad, 83 today!

A great day in Dubai today. First off to the markets, where my haggling skills impressed Shaun. To start at 250 AUD and buy it for 60 AUDI. Yep, I learned after my last visit for sure.

Sunset over the desert 

We got a few bits and pieces, very overwhelming the constant attention, Pasmima for madam, while they drape one over your shoulder. I just kept walking, but he came and claimed it, that should teach him. It does make it hard to buy anything, as you really can't just browse, you need to know you want a belt and some sunnies, like Shaun and then work out a price. Anyway, it was fun. Next, a trip on a Dhow, a flat boat, which for the sum of 40 cents took us across the river to the spice souks. The boat is so basic and great to be on the water. The captain was operating the dhow in his bare feet. Uniform shirt on, but bare feet.

Falconeering 

Back for lunch to the hotel and then off out again to a desert safari. A 4wd through the desert, watched the sunset, then to the camp, where we went on a camel ride, saw belly dancing, had a lovely dinner (with a beer, finally) and smoked shisha.

Belly dancing 

A great evening and a great day, which concludes the first half of my trip. Tomorrow we fly back to Christchurch for Mel's wedding on Saturday, but stay tuned as on Monday I will leave again for India. I will keep daily posts while in New Zealand. 

Day 152, Dubai, United Emirates

Views from Burj Khalifa 

A super day again with Shaun, very nice to have a travel companion indeed.

This morning we had a booking to go up the Burj Khalifa, the tallest building in the world at 828 meters, opened in 2009.

Atlantis The Palms

It took just 1 minute to get to floor 124! The very top floor is not occupied as it sways 1.5 m in high winds. Wow, that would be quite freaky. The building, as all of Dubai, breaks numerous records; elevator with the longest travel distance, highest number of stories in the world and highest occupied floor. In fact, you can watch the sunset from the bottom floor, get to the top and watch the sunset again!

After we caught the metro, tram and mono rail to The Palm Jumeirah, a development in the sea, built on reclaimed land shaped as a Palm tree. The huge and expensive Atlantis The Palms Hotel sits at the very end, which is where the monorail took us. Very interesting to have a look around.

Back to the Mall, as Shaun's laptop he bought yesterday needed attention, which all took much longer than anticipated. Finally back at the hotel by 8.00, quickly changed into togs, as we were keen on a swim, but found out the pool closed at 7.00. Bugger.

Day 151, Dubai, United Emirates

At the aquarium 

Had a late night last night due to the time difference, so didn't wake till 9.30. 

Breakfast at the hotel and then we decided to use the metro, which is so easy here. 

The metro stops near the Dubai Mall, and then there are huge corridors and travelators to take you to the mall, that seem to go on forever, I looked it up and it's 900 metres! We spent the day at the wonderful Dubai Mall, visiting the aquarium, the world's largest lolly shop, the fountain and the Sega Republic fun park. All that in one mall.

Real gingerbread house at the
lolly shop

Shaun did some great shopping and we walked for many kilometres, I'm sure. It's the largest mall by total land area in the world and we saw most of it, twice. We were fascinated people watching, so many cultures. We had a few giggles watching women with full burkas, eating Burger King for tea and wondering how they were going to manage that.

Finally home by 9.00, had stopped at the supermarket hoping to pick up some beers, but alas, none for sale, so it's a dry few days.

Day 150, Sheffield England to Dubai, United Emirates

Today was a travel day and goodbye to Europe. 

Up at 4, to collect Shaun and drive to Manchester airport, drop the car off and all that carry on. Went smoothly, no rushing and both our sense of direction is spot on we have discovered as we found the car rental place through a maze of roundabouts and no signage! 

Cuppa at the airport and a last minute rush to the gate (where did that 40 minutes go?).

A good and felt like a quick flight to Dubai where we picked up by the hotel.

Dubai is blissfully warm after Sheffield's cold and rain, even when we went for a walk for dinner at 9.30.

The hotel is nice, very new, swimming pool, so I am sure we will use that in the next three days we're here.

No pictures, didn't get a chance to take any today, but will catch up again tomorrow.

Day 149, Sheffield, England

My bedroom view

Brr, another cold and damp day in Sheffield.

My very last day of my time in Europe, as tomorrow Shaun and I board a plane to Dubai, where we'll be for 3 days before going to Christchurch for a wedding.

Went for a nice drive today again, through the Moors of Peak District National Park. Visited Chatsworth and Matlock, both cute little towns with plenty of character.

Chatsworth House 

Such a shame it's cold and foggy, but I guess it's that time of year. To be honest, when I opened the curtains
 this morning and saw another damp and grey day out, I wondered how people live here, in their cramped wee houses, with steep stairs and rising damp. (I know they're not all like that, just painting a picture). When I compare that with Ferreirola in Spain, the warmth of the people and the sun, it makes me feel I want to run back there. It's not hard to understand why a lot of British people pack up and go and live in the Spain or Portugal.

Dinner & drinks with this
lovely couple 

Anyway, a nice day with Shaun and Hannah, out for dinner to a local pub; they do those well here! 

An early night as we drive to the airport at 5.00! 

Day 148, Sheffield, England

A walk in Castleton 

Spent a lovely day around a Sheffield with Shaun and Hannah today.

First stop was the Botanical Gardens, although not warm, it was a nice stroll; the huge trees in their autumn colours are a sight to behold. There are squirrels everywhere too, not afraid of people at all, coming right up to you.

A cup of tea in the curators house and then it was time for my hair appointment, which I was hanging out for, finally a hairdresser who spoke English (albeit with a funny accent). He got it right, both cut and colour, so was happy with that.

The Tearooms 

After lunch we all went for a drive in my little Fiat, might as well use the blimmen thing seeing it cost a fortune! Went to Castleton, a small town half an hour away. Unfortunately it got really misty again, but the views were still pretty. A walk around and then we had afternoon tea and scones in the quaintest tearooms, upstairs, with a delightful host who collected currency from all over the world. Hot chocolate (with a dash of rum, my son, to keep the cold out) for Shaun, which he loved.

Mmm, hot chocolate with rum

Dinner out at a wonderful pub, with plenty of yarns about Canada, it is great to catch up.

Day 147, Nice, Spain to Sheffield, England

And mum is happy 

I have arrived in England! Didn't sleep so well last night, bit excited I think. The flight was fine, 2.5 hours, uneventful, and got my bag really quickly. No customs to speak off, so through the gate fast. In fact, I messaged Shaun from the airport at 11.45, said all is good, I should be there by 2.30 ish. I had decided to hire a car while here, saves trains and so went to pick up my rental car that I had booked online, only to be told they didn't have a car available, and the agency I had booked it through hadn't let me know. Quick decision time, do I get the train instead or push on with the plan to rent? 

Anyway, at a cost of 3 times what I was originally going to pay, I got my rental. Wasn't very happy, the agency will hear from me.

I used my iPad for directions (I was being a cheapskate, but GPS was an extra $30 per day!) and I managed to navigate my way to Sheffield quite nicely I must say, even on the big motorways. A lot of fog in the countryside, slowing me down to a crawl.

A little foggy

Eventually I got to Sheffield at 3.30, where I had arranged with Shaun that I would just go to a coffee shop nearby his flat and message him, which unfortunately I couldn't do as my iPad had run out of battery by now. Very frustrated I finally knocked on his door close to four, so was very happy then. To top it off I got a parking ticket (has misread the sign) of £70. About $175! 

Sheffield is cold, only 9 degrees this afternoon, dark by 4.30 and raining, but the best thing is, it's great to see Shaun again and catch up on everything, especially the hugs I have missed out on. And I got to meet his girlfriend Hannah, who is lovely, so going to be a nice few days together here (despite the cold)

Day 146, Frejus to Nice Airport, France

Goodbye! Goodbye France, Spain, Portugal, Morocco, Italy, Croatia, Bosnia, Hungary, Austria! 

It has been an awesome 5 months. So many nice places but best of all so many nice people and new friends made (who have promised they'll come visit NZ). I will miss you all, as well as the best coffee (made super fast) the history, the scenery, the sunshine, my GPS lady, haha, my wee car. Tomorrow I fly to England to see Shaun again after a whole year and meet Hannah, I can't wait. This journey has been all I had hoped it would be and then some. Au Revoir, Adios, Arrivedeci, Adeus.

I'll be back tomorrow, reporting from England!

Day 145, Frejus, France

Pretty Frejus 

A very quiet day today. Not sure if I mentioned it last time I was in France, but everything shuts on a Sunday, so that makes it very quiet walking through town. I went for a walk down the road later today, but nothing exciting.

Town square 

Anyway, I had planned to stay around the accommodation anyway, I wanted to repack, clean my car as I am returning it tomorrow and other bits and pieces. So a 'wind down day' really!