Day 236, Bangkok to Chiang Mai, Thailand

Bangkok skyline 

Bumped into my Thailand guide Sar this morning, and it was nice to see a familiar smiling face in Bangkok. A lovely day spent with Joanne & Antonia from the Cambodia trip; they both have an extra few days in Bangkok and decided to check into a super flash hotel as a treat. A beautiful view from the 16th floor over Bangkok and after a massage at 'my' favourite place we spent the rest of the afternoon at the hotel, nice to not rush about for a change. 

And then it was time to say goodbye. I really hate this part, but Antonia has a wedding to attend in Melbourne later this year and is seriously considering extending the journey to include a trip over to Christchurch.

I got the the train station with 15 minutes to spare to catch the train back up to Chiang Mai to meet up with Inger.

My cosy little cabin

We will spend 5 days together up north, not quite sure yet what we'll be doing but it's a beautiful part of the country, so am sure it will be enjoyable.

Ah, sleep on the night train, this is my 7th journey but still get excited. I made sure I booked a bottom seat again, nice wide bed and an early night I think.

Day 235, Bangkok, Thailand

Chaos at the border crossing 

And so we have come to the last day of the tour of Cambodia.

It was nothing like I expected, but then again, I am unsure what I really did expect, except that this wasn't it.

I was unaware of the story of Cambodia, maybe that's ignorant. I did know about the Killing fields but I didn't know the history behind that, as well as the current political situation and how volatile it still is and how unhappy and scared its people still are with its government.

How the tour guide needs to check if it's okay to speak his mind.

I have added this little piece from Wikipedia for your information:

The current Prime Minister is Cambodian People's Party(CPP) member Hun Sen. He has held this position since the criticized 1998 election, one year after the CPP staged a bloody coup in Phnom Penh^[1][2] to overthrow elected Prime Minister Prince Norodom Ranariddh, president of the FUNCINPEC party. Hun Sen has vowed to rule until he is 74. Hun Sen is a former Khmer Rouge member who defected and oversaw Cambodia's rise from the ashes of war. 

His government is regularly accused of ignoring human rights and suppressing political dissent. After the 2013 election results, disputed by Hun Sen's opposition, demonstrators were injured and killed in Cambodia in protests in the capital where a reported 20,000 protesters gathered, some clashing with riot police.^[3] From a humble farming background, Hun Sen was just 33 when he took power in 1985 and is now in the unenviable company of enduring dictators such as Zimbabwe's Robert Mugabe and Kazakhstan's Nursultan Nazarbayev.^[4]

So basically, the country is ruled by a dictator and corruption is rife. Our guide's favourite saying is 'anything is possible in Cambodia', meaning anything is possible if you have the money. But despite the corruption and sad history, it was a very interesting visit and also culturally ric

Luggage cart,
highest quality 

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Today we drove from Cambodia back to Thailand, a 9.5 hour journey including stops.

Farewell dinner in Khao San Rd in Bangkok, some live music afterwards, good night out. 

Day 234, Battam Bomg, Cambodia

Fried rat anyone?

This morning we left for Battam Bong, a town 170 km's west of Siem Reap.

On the way we stopped at a silk farm ( I'm getting to know the whole process by now) as well as a quick stop that sold a huge variety of fried animals, including rats and birds.

Rather disgusting I must add, I had a very quick look and hopped back on the bus. We arrived at the hotel 2.30 ish and sadly I received the news I have been waiting for and dreading for the last few days. My friend Robyn sadly passed away this afternoon after a brief and courageous fight with liver cancer. Robyn was only 36 and leaves behind her beautiful son 9 year old son Liam.

I met Robyn about 5.5 years ago when I did some work at the Wellington branch of Turners and we clicked straight away. She had a cheeky sense of humour and we kept in close contact over the years, especially when I had the chance to spend time in Wellington again two and a half years ago. It's hard to believe this has happened so so quickly, just two and a half weeks since she was diagnosed.

Joanne and Antonia decided we needed a drink, and I didn't argue, so we walked into town and had a couple of gins. 

Dinner tonight was at a family home, Sambat and his wife had a beautiful dinner for us, and it was so interesting to talk to him about Cambodia and it's politics. So much to learn from this lovely man who was born just prior to the Khmer Rouge coming into power. He talked about his struggle to earn a dollar when he first came to the city and sending his children to school.

I'm pleased we decided to have dinner with them and got to meet the family.

Day 233, Siem Reap, Cambodia

Sunrise over Angkor Wat

We had a very early start this morning, up at 4.30 to get to Angkor Wat to watch the sunrise over the temple. This is obviously a must do, as the amount of other tourists there was staggering. So many people just wanting to get the perfect shot, bit of a shame as so many seem to be so concerned with achieving this that they barely actually look at the sunrise, only through the lens. Some of us just sat by the lake on the other side, where it was calm and quiet and still beautiful. I snap a couple of shots with the iPad (yes. The nerd holding up the old iPad) but interesting that some of the guys with the fanciest camera on the tour are impressed with the quality of my photos, haha!

The famous overgrown door 

Next was the Ta Prohm, built in the late 12th and early 13th century, these ruins have been left as found, and the jungle has tried to reclaim this, so there are huge trees everywhere, with roots trailing over the ruins. Some restoration has been done, but very low key, and the site was quiet with few visitors when we first arrived. It was so peaceful, the birds singing, the light dappled, very pretty. I love how this has been left to be overgrown by the trees and roots, and my favourite temple so far. 

Trees growing everywhere 

This is the place where Tomb Raider was filmed and you can see why, so atmospheric and most of the set is ready. 

Back in town the four of us ladies, Joanne, Antonia, Lydia and I went for breakfast. Oh my, the choice was just too much. We got a little carried away and ordered numerous dishes, nothing Cambodia or Vietnamese; all of us have been traveling a while so felt like something 'European', like eggs benedict, wholemeal toast with avocado and tomato and banana bread, plus lattes. Oh the indulgence. 

Tuk tuk ride ready to go

We had the rest of the day free and I will admit we were all templed  out, so we spent the afternoon by the swimming pool, followed by dinner out with the four of us, sometimes nice to have a wee break from the whole group. 

Day 232, Siem Reap, Cambodia

Angkor Wat

Today was Temple Day!

We visited the Bayon Temple first, which took 39 years to built, completed in 1150. The king had a total of 150 temples built for his people and he was the most loved king. The temples he built were Budhist, but he didn't care which God his people came to pray to, be in Budhist, Hinduism or other. Throughout the temple are 49 towers and on each one are 4 faces carved which represent the 4 states of mind: Charity, Compassion, Sympathy and Equanimity. If you have those 4 states of mind, you will live a fulfilling life.

Monks at the temple 

The total Angkor Heritage site is 400 km2 and next up after lunch was the well known Angkor Wat Temple. The moat around Angkor Wat alone is 5.5 km's long. It took 37 years to build with more than 100,000 men involved. The total Wat covers 210 hectares and is the largest religious monument in the world.

A stunning temple 

It was built by the king as his state temple and eventual mausoleum.

It's absolutely stunning, and a pleasure just to be there, soak up the hasty, see the monks visiting and the monkeys roam in its huge gardens. 

A delicious dinner in a local restaurant, called Viroth's, the yummiest meal yet, especially the lemon tart afterwards! An early night, all very tired after the sightseeing day.

Day 231, Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, Cambodia

Houses on stilts

Our guide told us we would be seeing more of the real Cambodia, and I think we did.

We had a long day on the bus from Phnom Penh to Siem Riep, but plenty of stops along the way, so still an interesting day.

Our guide was full of information this morning about Cambodia history and more about the Khmer Rouge. First stop was at a town well known for their tarantulas, which are deep fried and eaten. Besides that there are baby frogs, beetles and grubs. Yummy.

Yummy tarantula, go Joanne

We stopped at a silk farm for lunch which was very informative, seeing how the worms produced the silk and it was then spun and woven into beautiful scarves. The couple who own the farm employ 17 local women, even paying maternity leave of 3 months, which is most unusual. The lunch served was very delicious too!

Little cuties 

The next big stop was the floating village. This place blew me away. First we drove through the village, over 200 years old, and about 6.000 residents. No power, no running water, no sewerage. The houses are all built on huge stilts, to deal with the river (an arm of the Mekong) flooding every year and the water rising several meters, as much as 4 or 5. The houses are as simple as, nailed together almost haphazardly, no door or window, just openings. The villagers live off the land and the river, going fishing every day for the huge variety of fish available, and some of this is for private consumption and some goes to market.

A beautiful sunset over the river

We got on a boat and took a ride up the river to the nearby lake, Tonle Sap Lake. Here we found house 'boats', and I use that term loosely as they were more like platforms with a little shack on top. There were probably about 40 to 50 anchored in the lake and there was even a school 'boat'. Unfortunately due to no sewerage system, all raw waste goes into the lake and river (gobbled up by the fish??). Our guide comes from a village just like this and he says people love this life. It's simple, healthy, no stress. Mmm, there's basic and then there is this. The water they drink comes straight from the river/ lake, in fact we saw a woman dip her bucket in and then drinking from it. From the same place the sewerage goes to, excellent.

Schooling, although the school is there, is abandoned often at an early age, about 12 or 13, as there is little motivation to stay.

Floating houses

It was a fascinating look into some of the life in Cambodia for sure.

We finally arrived at 7 in Siem Reap, a long day on the b us, but lots seen.

Day 230, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Bracelets left at the site of a mass graves

A distressing morning, I guess that's the only word to describe what we have seen.

Lin to webpage about Khmer Rouge

The first visit was to the S-21, a Genoside Museum that was a prison during the Khmer Rouge.

Chum Mey, survivor 

The prison (euphemistically called 'Education Centre') was previously a school and taken over once the Khmer Rouge took power. Arrested men and women were held here, tortured and beaten until they informed on their friends and family members and then from there taken to the killing fields (called Training Centres) The graphic details and descriptions are almost too much, although we are definitely warned beforehand about the content. There were 196 prisons like this all over Cambodia and 388 Killing fields. An estimated 1.7 people executed and a further million died of starvation. We met an 85 year old man there, who has somehow survived the prison.

Next we visited the Killing Fields, which was where the prisoners were taken to be killed and buried in mass graves. Most of the graves here have been opened and the bodies given a proper burial, but some of the bones are still there and visible in the ground. The stories told by our guide, so so sad. I had to walk away at one stage, it was too much to hear.

At the Kings Palace

I have added a link above if you want to read more about the Khmer Rouge regime, nothing too gory but it does explain well what happened during that time.

Cambodia is much different than I anticipated, still quite politically charged. There are things our guide will explain to us standing on a street corner and then there are things he will only tell us about on the privacy of our bus. He will actually add; I can't tell you about that here but will explain later. He got into quite a heated explanation over lunch about Cambodia's (lack of) education system and (lack of) health care system.

The four of us girls went to the Kings Palace after lunch, a very beautiful and opulent show piece, with a solid gold Budha.

A beautiful sunrise 

 A lovely dinner tonight at a restaurant called Friends, an enterprise started to help train disadvantaged young people in the hospitality trade. Yummy food and great service. 

Day 229, Saigon to Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Liberation Monument  

Oh my goodness , en effort to write tonight, I'm so ready for bed!

 A long long drive today from Saigon to Phnom Penh in Cambodia. I sat with a nurse from England, Joanne, and we had plenty to talk about, she has also traveled extensively, so time went fast. 

So we crossed the border, which was quite an ordeal. We had to hand our passports to a guide (not ours), first at the Vietnam departure point and then next at the Cambodian entry point. The border crossing is such a big deal (plus the visa was $55.00) that there is even a huge Duty Free store at the border, almost surreal to see this out in the middle of nowhere. I think a few palms get greased in the process of getting us across the border quite quickly. Put it this way, our guide told us that if we attempted the crossing on our own it could take up to 4 or 5 hours waiting.

Independence Monument 

The change of countries was quite obvious when we got into Cambodia. Certainly poorer looking houses (although they're rather basic even in Vietnam) and also most houses are built on piles. 

I'm certainly looking forward to learning more about the rich but sad history of this country.

Finally, after an almost 9 hour trip including breaks, we got to the hotel at 5.00.

View from the hotel 

A tuk tuk ride and a stop at the Independence Monument, which was built in 1958 to commemorate the independence from the French, and next the Liberation Monument, commemorating the defeat of the Khmer Rouge in 1979. Dinner out and now I'm pooped!

Day 228, Saigon, Vietnam

The War Museum

Up early as the shuttle was booked to pick me up at 7.00 am. The shuttle turned out to be just a taxi with only one other passenger; a chatty 31 year old from England who has just been working in Saigon for 18 months as an English teacher. So we yacked the whole way to the airport, the taxi driver turned the radio volume up three times trying to drown us out, but to no avail!

The flight was delayed (Jetstar!) via taxi at 1.00 at the hotel. Silly me hadn't read all the trip notes, I wasn't staying at that one so ended up walking to the correct one, which was fine, stretch the legs! Saigon is so so busy, such a change again after HoiAn. No way I would venture out here on a bicycle.

I decided to go back to the War Remnants Museum. We went last Saturday with the tour but our visit was cut short as the museum was closing for lunch so we had to leave (bizarre, have they not heard of shifts?).

Anyway, there was lots I hadn't seen so I could now take my time and not feel rushed. 

What a moving experience. There are so many photos and stories; this war was well documented. There's a whole section on war photographers, as well as the after effects of Agent Orange, the expenditures by the U.S. on the war as well as sections on the atrocities and crimes committed. I have never been to a museum or exhibition where people are so hushed and subdued, there was no laughter, smiles or even loud voices. People, young and old, obviously so moved by the stories told and (graphic) photos that they wept openly, me included. The pain and suffering that human beings can inflict on one another is so great and sad. 

Back to the hotel and time to meet the new group. A mixed bunch, a few older guys, 4 single females, 30's, 40 & me plus a family with a daughter. Time will tell me, but I sat next to an English nurse and we had some great indepth chats, I think we will get on very well.

Some of this group have just finished the same tour I took in Vietnam. Tragedy struck as one of their passengers died after slipping on some steps. How very upsetting, a 78 year old gentleman. Doesn't bear thinking about!
Tomorrow Cambodia, looking forward to it.

Day 227, HoiAn, Vietnam

New frock 

The problem with having a few days 'off', i.e. No travel, no rushing, no people around to distract  you, is that there is too much time to think. And tomorrow it will be 'only' four weeks until I go home. I still have four exciting weeks ahead; tomorrow night my Cambodia tour starts for 8 days and on Sunday we will cross the border into this intriguing country. 

The week after I will spend 5 days in North Thailand with Inger and then the Grand Finale: two weeks back to India, meet up with my niece Shanna to attend an Indian wedding.

So I shouldn't be thinking too much about getting home, but it happens. Settle back into my wee home (tenants will be moved out by the time I fly back, so I get to sleep in my own bed straight away) and I do look forward to that part. Start work again. And not so much looking forward to that part, but gotta pay that mortgage, AND start saving for the next holiday! Because I have been badly bitten by the travel bug, especially to the slightly different places.

Street food HoiAn 

Travel on my own does not faze me anymore either, what's the worst that could happen!

So, that's where my thoughts turned on this quiet day.

I visited Mrs Tan Tan the tailor twice, once for the fitting and then to double check and collect my two new dresses which I am very happy with. Anyone coming to HoiAn I can highly recommend this tailor, she is the loveliest lady indeed.

Intricately cut cards- a Vietnam specialty 

A couple of swims, some more biking and finally, sadly, I had to pack, ready for departure from HoiAn tomorrow. A beautiful dinner out, walk through town, and time to say goodbye to the lanterns and friendly folks of HoiAn.

Day 226, HoiAn, Vietnam

Note the cane highchair 

I had such a quiet day in Hoi An, that there is just not much to write about! Went and saw Mrs Tan Tan, ended up ordering two dresses, haha. Bike ride, swim. I so love this little town, I could just stay here and never go home.

I must tell you about scooters in Vietnam. For a population of 90 million, there are 37 million registered motorbikes (only about 2 million cars). They are everywhere man! In a town like HoiAn, what you see is 40 scooters, 20 bicycles. 5 taxis and 1 car. Roughly of course.

Cartons of eggs 

Everywhere I have been in Vietnam, I saw everyone and everything transported on bikes and scooters. Just this afternoon I saw a guy on the back of a motorcycle holding on to a wooden two wheeled cart, upon which had been stacked a huge aquarium (empty), a wardrobe and dressing table. Building materials, livestock, fridges, flatscreen televisions.

Hold onto that television!

Then there are whole families, mum, dad, toddler in this little 'high chair' or just standing up, and mum holding onto a baby with one arm, baby looking like it's going to slip and slide right out of her arms at any minute. There must be some point where the kids don't fit on the scooter anymore, but for a long time it seems to be sufficient to transport the family.

What is worn on the scooter is another matter altogether. For female riders and passengers it is imperative she is as fully covered as possible. This will involve the following items: gloves, socks (with jandals), a full length jacket, if wearing a skirt then an 'over skirt' is often worn to cover legs, a hoodie and a face mask that covers as much as possible.

All covered up

So, part of the reason for all this coverage is obviously the sun. And it's not just because they're worried about skin cancer; most of it is vanity. The lighter the skin better, hence the lightning face cremes. A tan means lots of time in the sun, so looks older, whiter skin means youth! So when you see a couple on the scooter from the back in shorts and singlets....you know they're tourists! 

Day 225, Hoi An, Vietnam

The pretty lanterns in Hoi An

A blissfully quiet day in Hoi An. I decided to hire a bicycle while I'm here, total of $4.00 for 3 days! So I biked back to 'my' tailor and Mrs Tan Tan was so happy to see me that she gave me a big hug! What a lovely lady. 

I took my time in the village, had a very good latte, browsed some shops and then biked to the beach and some of the surroundings of the village, about an hour and a half, so that was very enjoyable.

Swim when home, and some email chores and sorting accommodation for later in the trip.
A nice stroll through town tonight; Hoi An is known amongst other things, famous for its handmade lanterns that light up this pretty town in the evenings.

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A month today until I get home. I can't believe how fast this time has gone and yet it feels like I have been away forever. It was about this time last year that this crazy idea started to form for me; take a long time off work and go travel. And here I am, I thought this afternoon as I was biking past the rice fields, cycling in Hoi An, Vietnam. You never know what the next year will bring you. I have seen so much and experienced such cool things in that time, and still more to come!

Day 224, Hoi An, Vietnam

Dinner out with Inger 

A little luxury this morning, no alarm clock waking us, but we were still awake early as these things go.

Samantha and I went to the Independence Palace this morning.

In 1868 a home was built on this site for the French governor-general of Cochinchina and gradually it expanded to become Norodom Palace. When the French left, the palace became home to the South Vietnamese president Ngo Dinh Diem. He was so unpopular that his own air force bombed the palace in 1962 in an unsuccessful attempt to kill him. The president ordered a new residence to be built on the same site, this time with a bomb shelter in the basement.

Independence Palace 

Work was finished in 1966, but Diem did not get to see his dream house as he was killed by his own troops in 1963.
The new building was named Independence Palace and was home to the successive South Vietnamese president, Nguyen Van Thieu, until his hasty departure in 1975.

An interesting visit, especially the bunker, which was equipped as a telecommunications centre.

Then it was time to get to the airport, as today I flew back to Hoi An! I loved this little town when I was here last week and I had some spare days before my Cambodia tour starts so I thought why not!?

Inside the Palace 

I got here at about 5, and Inger also happened to be here with her tour so the two of us met up for dinner. Lots to catch up on about what we have seen of Vietnam so far, so it was a very nice evening. Funniest moment was when I spotted a big rat (we were sitting outside for dinner) and I made some sort of noise and said, argh, rat over there. Well, Inger jumped and screamed, she threw her legs on the table and clung to her chair, all the while I am laughing my head off. I haven't seen anyone react like at, she was squealing and laughing at the same time, suggesting someone carry her out of the restaurant! When I finally stopped laughing, I checked to ensure it wasn't there anymore and she managed to walk out by herself, highly embarrassed about the scene she'd made. A cocktail for us helped to settle the nerves, but certainly not at that establishment! 

Day 223, Saigon, Vietnam

Sunset over Saigon

Another early start, this morning we visited the the tunnels of Củ Chi, an immense network of connecting underground tunnels located in the Cu Chi district, about 70 k's north of Saigon. The Củ Chi tunnels were the location of several military campaigns during the Vietnam War. 

The tunnels were used by Viet Cong soldiers as hiding spots during combat, as well as serving as communication and supply routes, hospitals, food and weapon caches and living quarters for numerous North Vietnamese fighters. The tunnel systems were of great importance to the Viet Cong in their resistance to American forces, and helped to counter the growing American military effort.

Booby traps

We were shown the booby traps that the Viet Cong soldiers devised to protect their tunnels; various viscous traps to seriously hurt or kill the enemy. 

The worst part (for me anyway) was getting to go down into the tunnels and basically having to crawl to get through; they are so low and narrow that's it's extremely claustrophobic.

The tunnels were dug by hand, over 120 kilometres long, over various levels. The dirt dug out had to be carefully scattered in the surrounding area, some on the riverbank and some around trees. Cooking was done early in the morning in the tunnels so that any smoke blended with the morning mist. Men were malnourished and malaria was rampant.

It was altogether a very interesting and fascinating visit.

Not made for my height 

Back to a Saigon and Samantha and I had to change hotel as the tour is finished and the other hotel was fully booked. 

Then we met up with the others and went up the Bitexco a Tower for a look over the city from the 52nd floor and to have a (very expensive) drink. The views were truly beautiful, a great sight watching the sun set over the city and we stayed up there for quite a while just soaking in the vistas.

Day 222, Saigon, Vietnam

Cheyenne, Sam & Phi

We had a a wonderful day together; we visited the Mekong Delta. Bit of a bus ride there, hour and a half, and we were met at the 'wharf', for want of a better word, by a local guide named Lane. On the boat across the Delta where she gave us a commentary about the area. A lot of coconut trees grown here, so it's the main source of income for the people living on the island we visited. We were shown how every part of the coconuts are used; for sweets, shredded coconut, rice paper with coconut (yummy), the fibres, the coconut shells for bowls and the trees themselves; the leaves and wood to build houses. Our guide was very funny. She told us she has a two month old baby girl, who is looked after by her parents as she is separated from her husband. She told some great stories about life in Vietnam, with humour and interest.

Elephant Ear fish

We rode on the back of a tuk tuk, this one like a flat deck with some seats on them, over back roads in the villages, being hit by low hanging banana leaves, but at least not by coconuts! Some bumpy paths, and precarious corners, but loads of fun. 

We stopped for lunch, a beautiful spread of Elephant Ear fish, rice, fresh prawns and other Vietnamese traditional foods. Some of our group were getting quite sleepy after lunch, as they had drunk a lot more than I did last night and stayed out much later!

Add caption

No time for snoozing though, now we were into small boats, being 'rowed' by a pretty strong woman, down a small river, past the water coconut trees and onto the big Mekong River.

An insightful day into life in the Delta!

On the Mekong

Farewell dinner tonight was at a charitable organisation, called Koto, which stands for Know one, Teach one. The organisation was set up by an Australian ten years ago, where he would take street kids off the street as well as disadvantaged youths and train them in the hospitality industry. It's become a big success. Dinner was scrumptious, and I had quite a chat with our young waitress, who was keen to practice her English and tell me about her experience so far with Koto.

She was extremely proud of her training so far and the fact she now got to train others too.

A very unique place for our farewell dinner; a great choice Intrepid!