Day 188, Delhi, India to Bangkok, Thailand

And so my time in India has come to an end. What an unbelievable experience, so different from any country I have ever visited but wonderful all the same. 

I was at the airport early for check in, but the queue was huge and took forever, so after that there wasn't much time to kill. My bag is still only 14 kg, so I'm doing well. On one leg of my future flights I'm only allowed 15 kilos, so have to control the buying until after that!

The flight was fairly quick. I got a whiskey on the plane and for whatever reason the hostess gave me two glasses with at least a double in each, so was a pleasant flight, haha. 

I am all about India at the moment, reading the book Shantaram about Mumbai and watched this great movie called 'the Lunchbox'. In Mumbai there is this amazing system where lunch boxes (the stackable tin variety for hot dishes) are collected from a home and delivered to a workplace by this courier system that is incomprehensible but somehow works. So, the movie is a about a housewife who goes out of her way to cook special lunches for her non- attentive husband, but the lunchbox is delivered in error to a single, about-to-retire man, who appreciates her wonderful cooking. A correspondence starts, via the lunch boxes, and it's a charming story. 

I was met at the airport by a driver; I had treated myself and booked a pickup with Intrepid. It was a good 40 minutes drive from the airport, and it struck me straight away; no tooting and everyone stays in their lane. The streets and sidewalks so clean too. 

And then we arrived at the hotel! I actually did a double take, thought he might have dropped me off at the wrong one! It's very posh, live music in the huge reception area, got to my room and wanted to jump on the bed, haha! So clean, spacious, white towels (as opposed to the white/ grey ones in Delhi!) plus there is a pool. I will be a happy camper here for a few days until the your starts on Sunday. 

Day 187, Delhi, India

Akshardham Mandir

Well, that will teach me to jinx things. Yesterday's post I mention I never hear dogs barking, so what do I get for the whole flipped night? Bloody dogs barking, constantly. It did my head in, grr. 

I caught the metro today to a place called Akshardham, which the tour leader had told me about. A huge monument built in 2005, it is very beautiful. An easy ride and only 35 cents on the metro. I chose the Women's only carriage, a few less stares and more smiles! After the metro it was a matter of Follow the Crowd. And then the fun started.

The Murti of Bhagwan Swaminarayan

No cameras, electronic devices, cellphones or handbags allowed in, so queue for the cloakroom, only about 25 minutes. Then queue for the next queue (yes, that's right) to be searched and frisked. About 50 later I finally entered the park. I chatted with a Delhi man while waiting and found out this monument is very much enjoyed by the locals; a Sunday afternoon outing, and I can see why. The grounds were immaculate, the lawns green, the monuments imposing, the carvings very detailed. It was clearly enjoyed by people of all walks of life, what a great (free) respite from the chaos that is Delhi.

The fact you can't take photos is actually nice, no need to think about different shots and angles, you just enjoy what you see. 

Packed the bags tonight, off to Bangkok tomorrow.

Day 186, Delhi, India

Lodi Gardens 

Got woken during the night by the most vicious sounding dog fight. So many 'wild' dogs here, that don't belong to anyone, but actually look fairly healthy and well fed (not that I would pet one, mind you, a bit too feral for me). They all seem to live in relative harmony, and it's not often you even hear them barking. But these ones in the night were having a real go at each other!

I took a tuk tuk to Lodi Gardens today, a huge park spread over 90 acres , and contains archeological works by Lodhis, an Afghan dynasty that ruled parts of Northern India from mid 15th to early 16th century. It is beautiful and clean, quite unusual for anywhere in Delhi, and people are out picnicking, birthday parties, cricket games and lots of loved up couples snogging! It was cold in Delhi today, only about 13 degrees, so very strange to be wearing something warm. I stood and watched boys having a game of soccer for a while; mums on the sideline are the same as in NZ, loud!

I'm starting to feel so much at home in Delhi. Once the initial culture shock has hit you, you start to enjoy it, the hustle and bustle. I talked to the tuk tuk driver today and mentioned to him how calm all the drivers are. The traffic is chaos, the noise overwhelming, but in all of that the drivers never curse or swear, no gesturing or road rage; they all just take it in their stride. I think we have a lot to learn from indian drivers, let's start tooting!!

Day 185, Delhi, India

Everyone has left me and it's just me left. Kinds nice to not have any commitments today, I really just wanted to catch up with myself so to speak. I had some things to send home so got that packed and sorted, plus washing, chasing my flight refund from two weeks ago (Srinagar that didn't happen).

This afternoon went for a long walk into the main street. I must be starting to blend in, I think it's to do with body language, as no one even offered a tuk tuk ride, and minimal hassles in the markets. 

I still feel so foreign though; out for over an hour and only saw one other foreigner. 

I have started a great book, Shalv by Gregory David, about a man in Mumbai, so enjoying getting stuck into a new book. 

Well, short blog, tomorrow I will head out again, more news then.

Day 184, Delhi. India

Dilli Haat

Spent the day with Kathryn today, the only one of our group left! We took a tuk tuk, well, 3 actually, to Dilli Haat, a complex of arts and crafts, in New Delhi. The reason it took 3 tuk tuks is obscure and confusing, but involves the first driver not knowing where to go and the second driver 'stole' his fare (being us) and still dropping us off at the wrong place, and the third driver finally getting it right. We were in hysterics by then. The Dilli Haat was great, shopping without constantly being hassled. Bit of bartering but nothing outrageous. I had trouble with an ATM machine not dispensing my requested money, which resulted in some frantic phone calls to the bank (unfortunately he didn't speak English so that was not fruitful) and a visit to another bank where we sat in front of the bank manager like two naughty school children, waiting to tell our story. He spend twenty minutes on two phones before finally dealing with us, and still no answer. Fortunately when I checked my account later I found the transaction had not gone through, so no harm done.

Yummy lunch 

We had a great lunch there, 100 rupees ($2.00) and finally were shopped out by 3.00. The tuk tuk drive back was extremely slow; at one point we were going to get out and push! We had dinner with Ronnie, our guide tonight, and then tomorrow....it's just me as everyone will be gone. Last man standing.

Day 183, Agra to Delhi, India

Train station madness 

Train travel is most definitely very interesting in India. This morning we boarded the train to Delhi. Trains rarely run on time here, due to the lack of tracks, so if one is delayed it has a domino effect. Getting on the train is another challenge, sometimes the train only stops for one minute, which means if you have a group of 12 with luggage to get on, it can be a tight squeeze! The train we got on this morning is on the last leg of a 3000 kilometre journey from the south of India, and you can tell it's been going for a while; the sleeper bunks are out, blankets, sheets, pillows as well as rubbish left behind by previous occupants. When we got to our seats we found a man still snugly wrapped up in his blanket, snoring his head off. Imagine his surprise when he woke up and he found tourists opposite him, the poor man.

On the train 

There is a constant stream of offers of chai tea, chicken briani (safety to eat is dubious) and water. However, drink too much water and you have to use the toilets, which after 3 days with no cleaning is an experience to miss. Finally, arrival in Delhi, and the chaos of the Delhi trainstation is indescribable. Some of our group got porters, and again they throw two suitcases on their head, while carrying another two. Up the stairs to get over the tracks, people everywhere, sleeping, begging, waiting, families, the smells, food vendors, just crazy. Eventually we're out, then to to waiting vans, which was another challenge. Apparently cars in the car park don't put their handbrake on and leave the car in neutral, so if it needs to be moved someone can easily push it, which is exactly what our driver had to do. 

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Back to Pooja Palace for a much appreciated beer and our last dinner out together; it's been absolutely wonderful.

Day 182, Agra, India

The Taj

This morning a visit to the Red Fort, a walled city, completed in 1573. Some 4,000 builders worked on it over a period of 8 years, and was protected by a moat complete with crocodiles and after that an enclosure guarded by lions and tigers! The whole fort is beautiful and a lovely view towards the Taj. Agra, the town where we are, is much more commercial than any other town we have been to so far. Nowhere else have I seen a KFC, Subway and Dominos Pizza, and they definitely look out of place here.

The Red Fort

Finally, this afternoon, the time came to visit the famous Taj Mahal. We didn't go this morning, as at this time of year the Taj is shrouded in mist in the morning, so afternoon visit instead. We all knew it would be busy, and it definitely was, but still plenty of opportunity for photos, even the famous 'Diana ' shot. To think the Taj was built solely a mausoleum to house the tomb of the favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal, of Mughal emperor Shah Jahan. It's grounds are beautifully kept, and the marble shimmers in the sun, it is quite breathtaking.

The moat around the Red Fort 

Everywhere we went, people wanted to have their photo taken with us, a bizarre experience. This one old lady in particular took a real shine to Kathryn, and was hugging her, then kissing our hands, she was just lovely. 

And then it was time for our goodbye dinner. Four of our group are continuing on to Rajasthan for another ten days or so, while the rest of us return to Delhi tomorrow for the last day of our tour. Sadly had to say goodbye to Mary, my roomy. We've become great mates in the last two weeks, but at least I have another excuse to visit Wellington; catch up with Mary!