Day 228, Saigon, Vietnam

The War Museum

Up early as the shuttle was booked to pick me up at 7.00 am. The shuttle turned out to be just a taxi with only one other passenger; a chatty 31 year old from England who has just been working in Saigon for 18 months as an English teacher. So we yacked the whole way to the airport, the taxi driver turned the radio volume up three times trying to drown us out, but to no avail!

The flight was delayed (Jetstar!) via taxi at 1.00 at the hotel. Silly me hadn't read all the trip notes, I wasn't staying at that one so ended up walking to the correct one, which was fine, stretch the legs! Saigon is so so busy, such a change again after HoiAn. No way I would venture out here on a bicycle.

I decided to go back to the War Remnants Museum. We went last Saturday with the tour but our visit was cut short as the museum was closing for lunch so we had to leave (bizarre, have they not heard of shifts?).

Anyway, there was lots I hadn't seen so I could now take my time and not feel rushed. 

What a moving experience. There are so many photos and stories; this war was well documented. There's a whole section on war photographers, as well as the after effects of Agent Orange, the expenditures by the U.S. on the war as well as sections on the atrocities and crimes committed. I have never been to a museum or exhibition where people are so hushed and subdued, there was no laughter, smiles or even loud voices. People, young and old, obviously so moved by the stories told and (graphic) photos that they wept openly, me included. The pain and suffering that human beings can inflict on one another is so great and sad. 

Back to the hotel and time to meet the new group. A mixed bunch, a few older guys, 4 single females, 30's, 40 & me plus a family with a daughter. Time will tell me, but I sat next to an English nurse and we had some great indepth chats, I think we will get on very well.

Some of this group have just finished the same tour I took in Vietnam. Tragedy struck as one of their passengers died after slipping on some steps. How very upsetting, a 78 year old gentleman. Doesn't bear thinking about!
Tomorrow Cambodia, looking forward to it.

Day 227, HoiAn, Vietnam

New frock 

The problem with having a few days 'off', i.e. No travel, no rushing, no people around to distract  you, is that there is too much time to think. And tomorrow it will be 'only' four weeks until I go home. I still have four exciting weeks ahead; tomorrow night my Cambodia tour starts for 8 days and on Sunday we will cross the border into this intriguing country. 

The week after I will spend 5 days in North Thailand with Inger and then the Grand Finale: two weeks back to India, meet up with my niece Shanna to attend an Indian wedding.

So I shouldn't be thinking too much about getting home, but it happens. Settle back into my wee home (tenants will be moved out by the time I fly back, so I get to sleep in my own bed straight away) and I do look forward to that part. Start work again. And not so much looking forward to that part, but gotta pay that mortgage, AND start saving for the next holiday! Because I have been badly bitten by the travel bug, especially to the slightly different places.

Street food HoiAn 

Travel on my own does not faze me anymore either, what's the worst that could happen!

So, that's where my thoughts turned on this quiet day.

I visited Mrs Tan Tan the tailor twice, once for the fitting and then to double check and collect my two new dresses which I am very happy with. Anyone coming to HoiAn I can highly recommend this tailor, she is the loveliest lady indeed.

Intricately cut cards- a Vietnam specialty 

A couple of swims, some more biking and finally, sadly, I had to pack, ready for departure from HoiAn tomorrow. A beautiful dinner out, walk through town, and time to say goodbye to the lanterns and friendly folks of HoiAn.

Day 226, HoiAn, Vietnam

Note the cane highchair 

I had such a quiet day in Hoi An, that there is just not much to write about! Went and saw Mrs Tan Tan, ended up ordering two dresses, haha. Bike ride, swim. I so love this little town, I could just stay here and never go home.

I must tell you about scooters in Vietnam. For a population of 90 million, there are 37 million registered motorbikes (only about 2 million cars). They are everywhere man! In a town like HoiAn, what you see is 40 scooters, 20 bicycles. 5 taxis and 1 car. Roughly of course.

Cartons of eggs 

Everywhere I have been in Vietnam, I saw everyone and everything transported on bikes and scooters. Just this afternoon I saw a guy on the back of a motorcycle holding on to a wooden two wheeled cart, upon which had been stacked a huge aquarium (empty), a wardrobe and dressing table. Building materials, livestock, fridges, flatscreen televisions.

Hold onto that television!

Then there are whole families, mum, dad, toddler in this little 'high chair' or just standing up, and mum holding onto a baby with one arm, baby looking like it's going to slip and slide right out of her arms at any minute. There must be some point where the kids don't fit on the scooter anymore, but for a long time it seems to be sufficient to transport the family.

What is worn on the scooter is another matter altogether. For female riders and passengers it is imperative she is as fully covered as possible. This will involve the following items: gloves, socks (with jandals), a full length jacket, if wearing a skirt then an 'over skirt' is often worn to cover legs, a hoodie and a face mask that covers as much as possible.

All covered up

So, part of the reason for all this coverage is obviously the sun. And it's not just because they're worried about skin cancer; most of it is vanity. The lighter the skin better, hence the lightning face cremes. A tan means lots of time in the sun, so looks older, whiter skin means youth! So when you see a couple on the scooter from the back in shorts and singlets....you know they're tourists! 

Day 225, Hoi An, Vietnam

The pretty lanterns in Hoi An

A blissfully quiet day in Hoi An. I decided to hire a bicycle while I'm here, total of $4.00 for 3 days! So I biked back to 'my' tailor and Mrs Tan Tan was so happy to see me that she gave me a big hug! What a lovely lady. 

I took my time in the village, had a very good latte, browsed some shops and then biked to the beach and some of the surroundings of the village, about an hour and a half, so that was very enjoyable.

Swim when home, and some email chores and sorting accommodation for later in the trip.
A nice stroll through town tonight; Hoi An is known amongst other things, famous for its handmade lanterns that light up this pretty town in the evenings.

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A month today until I get home. I can't believe how fast this time has gone and yet it feels like I have been away forever. It was about this time last year that this crazy idea started to form for me; take a long time off work and go travel. And here I am, I thought this afternoon as I was biking past the rice fields, cycling in Hoi An, Vietnam. You never know what the next year will bring you. I have seen so much and experienced such cool things in that time, and still more to come!

Day 224, Hoi An, Vietnam

Dinner out with Inger 

A little luxury this morning, no alarm clock waking us, but we were still awake early as these things go.

Samantha and I went to the Independence Palace this morning.

In 1868 a home was built on this site for the French governor-general of Cochinchina and gradually it expanded to become Norodom Palace. When the French left, the palace became home to the South Vietnamese president Ngo Dinh Diem. He was so unpopular that his own air force bombed the palace in 1962 in an unsuccessful attempt to kill him. The president ordered a new residence to be built on the same site, this time with a bomb shelter in the basement.

Independence Palace 

Work was finished in 1966, but Diem did not get to see his dream house as he was killed by his own troops in 1963.
The new building was named Independence Palace and was home to the successive South Vietnamese president, Nguyen Van Thieu, until his hasty departure in 1975.

An interesting visit, especially the bunker, which was equipped as a telecommunications centre.

Then it was time to get to the airport, as today I flew back to Hoi An! I loved this little town when I was here last week and I had some spare days before my Cambodia tour starts so I thought why not!?

Inside the Palace 

I got here at about 5, and Inger also happened to be here with her tour so the two of us met up for dinner. Lots to catch up on about what we have seen of Vietnam so far, so it was a very nice evening. Funniest moment was when I spotted a big rat (we were sitting outside for dinner) and I made some sort of noise and said, argh, rat over there. Well, Inger jumped and screamed, she threw her legs on the table and clung to her chair, all the while I am laughing my head off. I haven't seen anyone react like at, she was squealing and laughing at the same time, suggesting someone carry her out of the restaurant! When I finally stopped laughing, I checked to ensure it wasn't there anymore and she managed to walk out by herself, highly embarrassed about the scene she'd made. A cocktail for us helped to settle the nerves, but certainly not at that establishment! 

Day 223, Saigon, Vietnam

Sunset over Saigon

Another early start, this morning we visited the the tunnels of Củ Chi, an immense network of connecting underground tunnels located in the Cu Chi district, about 70 k's north of Saigon. The Củ Chi tunnels were the location of several military campaigns during the Vietnam War. 

The tunnels were used by Viet Cong soldiers as hiding spots during combat, as well as serving as communication and supply routes, hospitals, food and weapon caches and living quarters for numerous North Vietnamese fighters. The tunnel systems were of great importance to the Viet Cong in their resistance to American forces, and helped to counter the growing American military effort.

Booby traps

We were shown the booby traps that the Viet Cong soldiers devised to protect their tunnels; various viscous traps to seriously hurt or kill the enemy. 

The worst part (for me anyway) was getting to go down into the tunnels and basically having to crawl to get through; they are so low and narrow that's it's extremely claustrophobic.

The tunnels were dug by hand, over 120 kilometres long, over various levels. The dirt dug out had to be carefully scattered in the surrounding area, some on the riverbank and some around trees. Cooking was done early in the morning in the tunnels so that any smoke blended with the morning mist. Men were malnourished and malaria was rampant.

It was altogether a very interesting and fascinating visit.

Not made for my height 

Back to a Saigon and Samantha and I had to change hotel as the tour is finished and the other hotel was fully booked. 

Then we met up with the others and went up the Bitexco a Tower for a look over the city from the 52nd floor and to have a (very expensive) drink. The views were truly beautiful, a great sight watching the sun set over the city and we stayed up there for quite a while just soaking in the vistas.

Day 222, Saigon, Vietnam

Cheyenne, Sam & Phi

We had a a wonderful day together; we visited the Mekong Delta. Bit of a bus ride there, hour and a half, and we were met at the 'wharf', for want of a better word, by a local guide named Lane. On the boat across the Delta where she gave us a commentary about the area. A lot of coconut trees grown here, so it's the main source of income for the people living on the island we visited. We were shown how every part of the coconuts are used; for sweets, shredded coconut, rice paper with coconut (yummy), the fibres, the coconut shells for bowls and the trees themselves; the leaves and wood to build houses. Our guide was very funny. She told us she has a two month old baby girl, who is looked after by her parents as she is separated from her husband. She told some great stories about life in Vietnam, with humour and interest.

Elephant Ear fish

We rode on the back of a tuk tuk, this one like a flat deck with some seats on them, over back roads in the villages, being hit by low hanging banana leaves, but at least not by coconuts! Some bumpy paths, and precarious corners, but loads of fun. 

We stopped for lunch, a beautiful spread of Elephant Ear fish, rice, fresh prawns and other Vietnamese traditional foods. Some of our group were getting quite sleepy after lunch, as they had drunk a lot more than I did last night and stayed out much later!

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No time for snoozing though, now we were into small boats, being 'rowed' by a pretty strong woman, down a small river, past the water coconut trees and onto the big Mekong River.

An insightful day into life in the Delta!

On the Mekong

Farewell dinner tonight was at a charitable organisation, called Koto, which stands for Know one, Teach one. The organisation was set up by an Australian ten years ago, where he would take street kids off the street as well as disadvantaged youths and train them in the hospitality industry. It's become a big success. Dinner was scrumptious, and I had quite a chat with our young waitress, who was keen to practice her English and tell me about her experience so far with Koto.

She was extremely proud of her training so far and the fact she now got to train others too.

A very unique place for our farewell dinner; a great choice Intrepid!