Day 254, Delhi, India

With Asha and Maya at 'Mayas Nest'

My last day in India and my last day of travel and adventures.

Oh, how I will miss all of it, the excitement of new places and people to meet.

I have enjoyed my whole trip, almost 9 months of discovering not just about the big wide world out there, but also about me!

Shanna and I went on a shopping mission today to craft markets; Dilli Haat and Dastkar.

We took tuk tuks, Shanna hadn't been in one yet, so that added to the experience. But what a lovely day it was! We (mainly me) bought quite a few bits and pieces. Especially the last few months I have bought very few things to take home, mainly because I didn't want to be carrying too much with me, and I kept telling myself once I got to Delhi it would be my opportunity. Last time in Delhi I went to Dilli Haat with Kathryn and decided then to return.

With my henna artist 

Shanna and I also had the chance to have our henna redone and found a really good artist. 

The international language is definitely a smile; Shanna had a small mole on her arm and the artist covered it beautifully with a henna drawing. When she noticed and smiled, he looked up with a huge grin, obviously happy with her reaction too.

Tuk tuk time

Next another tuk tuk ride, the negotiations are always interesting, but a must. We went to Dastkar, another arts and crafts market and very nice to shop at, again I managed to get a few nice things. 

Back at our guesthouse we got our suitcases sorted and had a nice cup of tea and chat with our host Asha and her daughter Maya. Maya is an artist and has some wonderful paintings in the house. I encouraged her to put a wee sign up in the guest rooms to make guests aware of her paintings and to actually start selling them, as her work is very unique and she has a great style. I think she was really quite pleased with the compliments!

Time to say goodbye to Shanna, she has a midnight flight and mine is tomorrow at lunchtime.

It's also time to say goodbye to all those who read my blog as after today there won't be much to share so no more posts after today.

No write-off here;
someone was working on this car!

It's been a pleasure to write my blog; an excellent way to record my journey and share it with you, but it also has made me think a little harder about my days and at times research what I have seen and done that day. 

Goodbye and au revoir xoxoxo 

Day 253, Delhi, India

At the Taj

An early start; we were up before 6 and picked up by car at 7.00, to be taken to Agra and the Taj Mahal.

A bit of a drive first to the other side of Delhi, even at that early hour and no traffic it took 45 minutes, then on the new express way for 185 km's straight, no exits! And then we were in Agra.

This small city only has a population of 4 million and has two most significant monuments; the Taj and Agra Fort.

The crazy streets of Agra

We were met by our guide for the day, Shaan Kahn, who was both informative and helpful with taking photos. He took a real shine to Shanna, actually said 'you must get proposed to every day, you are so beautiful'. He even asked her what she looks for in a man! It was very funny and I think Shanna was really quite flattered.

After lunch at a nice restaurant, all included in the Amin Day Tours price, we stopped at a workshop/ shop where they inlay stones into marble, very much like the artists did at the Taj Mahal. It was interesting to see how it's done and I couldn't help myself and bought a wee souvenir (yes, I know, the purpose of bringing me there).

Filing down the stones to be inlaid 

Next was the Agra Fort, and even though I have seen it before, again it was interesting to hear its history, especially mingled with Shanna being chatted up by Shaan! 

And then time to drive back into peak hour Delhi traffic. 

Day 252, Delhi, India

At the museum yesterday 

Well, I guess today you would call a boring day in the sense of travel.

We caught a taxi to the airport and were there early. Udaipur Airport is very clean and modern, but very quiet; only 5 flights departing today!

An uneventful flight and arrival into Delhi, then a taxi to our guesthouse, which took a while. We are staying quite close to the airport, only it took the driver a while to find the property. 

Tonight we are staying at a guesthouse, only three rooms and we are welcomed by the mother standing on the balcony waving us up.

Another one at the museum 

She made us a lovely cup of tea and a biscuit and sat and had a chat, a nice change from a hotel.

So Shanna and I have experienced it all while in India; a 5 star hotel in Juhu beach, a hotel in the midst of it in South Mumbai, an unusual guesthouse with a super view from the rooftop restaurant, a Palace (indescribable beautiful) and now a Homestay.

We walked to a nearby mall as we needed a couple of things, Shanna a new suitcase and for me some hairspray. The Ambience Mall was big and modern, we almost felt like we were not in India anymore. Well, suitcase was no issue, but hairspray! We went to numerous shops, we even found a supermarket (my first one in 3 months!), but none to be found. At one stage we went into a store similar to Farmers, and was approached by a male assistant (not many female shop assistants). While explaining what I was after, I had 7 male staff staring at me; they are obviously overstaffed here! A very bizarre experience and still no hairspray! I eventually found some at a hair salon though. 

Day 251, Udaipur, India

Playing the flute at the gift ceremony 

Everything takes time in India. We ended up not seeing the actual wedding ceremony last night! It happened at 2.15 in the morning and lasted two hours and Shanna and I both missed it. Having said that, lots of the other guests also didn't get there, so we didn't feel too bad. It got so cold outside, and nothing was happening, as in, no music or dancing, so it was too long a wait.

We saw so many other ceremonies and beautiful things though, and in the end it didn't really matter.

The gold and diamond jewellery 

After breakfast and checkout we were meeting in the gardens to farewell the bride and groom at 10 am. We finally bid them farewell at 2.00, such is the Indian timetable. 

However, that's totally besides the point.

Our stay and attendance at the wedding has been beyond description. Everyone, and especially the bride's mum and sister, made us feel so welcome and involved us. There were more gifts for the guests, a beautiful gold medallion as well as a solid gold picture with the frame engraved with the bride and grooms names. The married couple sat on a bench, receiving their gifts from the opposite family; gold and diamond necklaces, bracelets and earrings as well as gifts for both the in-laws. This is definitely a different world altogether.

With the bride's mum, receiving
another gift

Especially when we came back from the Palace into Udaipur old city and our guesthouse. Outside as we got out of the taxi there was a man begging; his legs were so badly deformed that he was having to use his hands to get around, he almost appeared to be a double amputee, scooting around like that. How can you reconcile that with the opulence we have witnessed for three days, I just do not know, don't know if you ever can. 

After check in to the guesthouse we went for a walk to the museum. The most interesting part was the artist in the foyer, selling miniature paintings. We had a great chat with him, he painted my thumbnail to show he really was an artist and we made his day when we both purchased paintings of him.

With the artist 

Dinner back up on the rooftop restaurant and an early night, the last few days have been pretty full on.

Day 250, Udaipur, India

Views at the Palace 

Woke up to the news of an earthquake in Christchurch, but fortunately everyone is alright.

Last night's celebrations were so full on; the bride and groom performed a very well choreographed dance routine, there was an Indian Idol finalist singing, lots of dancing.

The Indians are very spontaneous and will break out singing and dancing at any given time and not just for 5 minutes! We get invited to join everything, they'll come and drag us into the dancing circle, showing us what to do and explaining along the way.

Silk scarves presented at breakfast 

The breakfast room was full of red heart shaped balloons this morning and a red rose had been delivered to our room inviting us to breakfast.

This morning was the 'Haldi', where guests put a turmeric paste on the brides face, legs and arms. The paste serves as a cleanser for the body and soul and signifies the bride's preparation and welcoming into adult married life. The bride was sitting on a beautifully decorated huge swing for this. 

The Haldi ceremony 

Next time for lunch, another drive back into Udaipur and back. On the way we casually came across an elephant standing on the road, but apparently it is involved in the wedding procession tonight.

Finally back at 5.15 which gave us just a little time to get glammed up for this evenings big event, the actual marriage vows.

Ready at 6.30 as told to be, we all met by the pool, but we should have known it is India Flexi time, which means no one else is ready apart from us westerners, haha! We all still pinch ourselves to have been invited and involved in this wedding; it is absolutely glamour at its peak. Without being crass, the cost of the wedding would have bought a nice 4 bedroom home in Christchurch! 

With the other Melbournites

First a 'turban' session, where all men get fitted with a turban; the grooms side were cream and burgundy, the bride pink. And then it was time to escort the groom to the wedding, with a lot of music, guests of honour on elephants and the groom on a carriage drawn by 4 horses. The whole procession took about an hour and a half, with much dancing and laughter, money thrown around and elephants getting skittish with guns even being fired.

Horse drawn carriage 

We finally sat down for dinner at about 10.15, and the actual wedding ceremony is yet to happen.

Day 249, Udaipur , India

In the Palace

And the wedding celebrations have begun!

We checked out early this morning from our guesthouse in downtown Udaipur and taxied to RAAS Devigarh, a 250 year old fort Palace whose interior has been transformed into a 5 star luxury resort.

Our beautiful room

And this is where we have been accommodated as guests of the groom for the next two nights. Arrival was lovely, musicians sitting playing traditional Indian music, rose petals thrown from a little hidden balcony to scatter over our heads, refreshing cloths and a cold drink. Before check in there was breakfast and a tour of the Palace. It absolutely beautiful, so tastefully restored, with views over the valleys below. Only 36 rooms, so we are very fortunate to be staying here.

Little lad watching the drummer 

We met another dozen people who have also come from Melbourne for the wedding.

Next a trip back into Udaipur for lunch at the Raddison Hotel, where again we were welcomed with music, a bindi placed on our foreheads and then the dancing started; the ladies first, some indian ladies showing us how to and then the men joined in! So much fun to watch them, all really good and unselfconscious. 

Shanna and I keep pinching ourselves, saying wow, how lucky we are to be invited and to be part of this. Everything is just so, there's a wedding planner running around ushering us to and fro, ensuring everything is fine.

The party has started

Back again to the Palace (about 45 minutes on a private bus) and then we had a chance to enjoy our gorgeous room for a while; snack basket delivered, fruit, marble bathroom.

All glammed up

When all dressed and glamorous we went down to the pool party and later another party on the front lawn. Music is loud, dancing is enthusiastic and I must say that Indian men dance a lot better the average Kiwi. The women get right into it too, so when asked to come up and join the dancing I did.

The Palace lit up at night

The Palace is beautifully lit up in the evening and so pleasant just to walk around and admire.

Day 248, Udaipur, India

Looking over the lake 

Today we explored some of Udaipur. First up was the beautiful City Palace.

The city Palace was built concurrently with establishment of the Udaipur city by Maharana Udaipur Singh, in 1553 and his successor Maharanas over a period of the next 300 years. It is considered the largest royal complex in Rajasthan and is full with history. It provided lovely views over the city and we spent a happy hour and a bit there. Next we were on a mission as I needed a white singlet for under my dress and Shanna also needed an undergarment. So we found a wee place that sold what I needed. And I mean wee. It can't have been more than a metre wide and about 4 metres deep, stay full with boxes. I came armed with a photo of what I needed and he straight away found the box revealing my simple white singlet. Bless his socks, I bought two as he was so genuinely helpful.

View from the Palace

Next he pointed Shanna in the right direction for her bra. A shop two doors down of very much the same dimensions, and another helpful man. Yes, he found one for her, again in a box ( no luxurious racks of bras to browse through, no pun intended).

62 and proud of it

Simple but cheap, $2.20, yes that one will do. Anyway, that's when he got chatting. 'Guess how old I am!' Shanna and I guessed about mid forties, being a little generous. 'No, 62!' And he was chuckling away, then had to show us pictures of his daughters and grandson. I asked if owning a shop selling bras kept him young, oh yes definitely he said! He was a real flirt, but so much fun, and we had a good laugh with him.

Next we went on a bit if a cruise around the lake on a boat, just 45 minutes but nice to be on the water and seeing the town from the lake.

Part of the Palace 

We had decided we wanted henna done for the wedding and asked our host here if he could recommend a good one. He organised it for us and one of the lads walked us down the road, a wee alleyway and there we were. A young woman, in a simple room, no other furniture than a bed, wardrobe, chair. The room was 2.5 by 2.5 metres and clearly where she and her husband lived. She did the loveliest job while her husband, who spoke English, translated and explained where and how she learned the art. She charged the tiny sum of $3.30 each. At one stage we spotted a cow in the house across the road! And as we came out and stood and admired our painted hands, a little boy called hello from the upstairs window across the alley and his mum complimented us as well. Such lovely warm people.

Day 247, Mumbai to Udaipur, India

At Lake Pichhola 

Beautiful Udaipur!

What was only a one hour flight actually took us 6 hours of travel; first taxi to airport (took us to incorrect terminal to start with, but got it right in the end), then wait at airport, flight, taxi from airport to Udaipur and then a 15 minute walk, as the town is closed to traffic for some festival.

We already started liking the town walking through it (although we got asked over and over again if we wanted a tuk tuk to our hotel).

Veges anyone?

Then we arrived at our guesthouse, a typical Udaipur style house, 4 stories, marble staircase and tiles everywhere and only 12 rooms. It's quaint with lovely window seats ( where I am sitting now to write this), simple but clean. We had a look at the rooftop restaurant first with great views over the town and then decided to go for a wander.

Street scenes 

In our first 5 minutes I think we saw more foreigners than we had in the 4 previous days in Mumbai. Shopkeepers are all keen to entice us in, but friendly and courteous if you decline. The streets wind up and down, some leading to the huge lake, Pichhola Lake. W

We took a leisurely stroll and then Shanna found a dress she liked for the pool party; made to her measurements only $16.00!

Hello cow!

The town feels so friendly and interesting; we are going to be very happy spending the next few days here for sure.

Sunset from the rooftop restaurant 

Dinner on the rooftop while watching the sunset was stunning, the food delicious and the owner came over and had a chat too. Overall a very very nice evening. Apart from me and an internal thought that slipped out! Shanna had ordered a beer and when it arrived it was a very big bottle. 'Oh, that's a big one ' she said to the waiter. So than I commented 'I bet you say that to all the boys' (yes, I should have just thought it). And with that, he cracked up laughing; his English was obviously quite good! 

Day 246, Mumbai, India

Seagulls in full flight 

We decided we needed to do some more shopping today as we need a few different outfits for this wedding, so we took a taxi back to the Gateway of India. We had another look around there but unfortunately there was some official function happening, so we couldn't access it.

 We did however feel like celebrities for a wee while, as the locals wanted to have their photos taken with us! First one, then his friend, then others saw an opening, and before we knew it we had them lining up, funny!

Nagina hairdresser
Pleased that's a 'N'

We found a street with lots of stalls and shops, so headed there for some serious bartering. First stop was for some beautiful pashminas, next blingy jewellery for the wedding. The more we shopped, the more we got hassled, as the stall holders must have thought we were big spenders. I found another nice dress for the 'pool party' part of the wedding, worn with the most unflattering leggings underneath. At least they're not on show! Shoes for Shanna, and then we were almost done.

Chow patty beach

Stopped and had a coffee and cake at Leopold Cafe, a bar and restaurant established in 1871, and it featured extensively in my favourite novel Shantaram. We just happened to stumble across it.

Next we went back to see some artists we had passed yesterday on our tour, in particular photos taken by children, involved with 'Art Room ', a trust which utilises the medium of art to empower children and women of marginalised communities. We purchased two each, and were so happy with them.

Best mates

Next we saw something very unpleasant; an obviously poor man carrying his child, and when he spotted us he took the child's arm and deliberately hurt it (to the point of trying to make it making it bleed) in order to get us to give him money. We had by then already turned away from him, and he was running after us, very uncomfortable situation, combined with a random wildly barking dog in the middle of the road. We managed to duck into a very handily placed cafe and spent some time calming down.

Altogether an interesting day, but we both agree we have had enough of the big city (22 million inhabitants in Mumbai!)

Day 245, Mumbai, India

On the train in Mumbai 

We went for a walk today to Chowpatty Beach today, but unfortunately mostly closed off, so we didn't get to go on, however we went passed by bus later this afternoon and found an open gap in the fence, so that's tomorrow's trip.

Next we did a 4 hour tour of Mumbai; it was very interesting.

We met our local guide near the Gateway to India and Taj Mahal hotel. She was a young university student who does the guiding as a part time job. It was just us and her, so plenty of one on one time.

At the Taj Mahal Hotel

She told us the story of how the Taj Mahal Hotel came to be built; first there was a hotel called the Watson. There was an Indian man who wanted to stay at the Watson but was refused entry because he was Indian (in 1903), decided to seek revenge and built his own hotel. It is now a 5 star hotel, which boasts 1500 staff including 35 butlers. The Watson's is in serious disrepair, but still houses lawyers offices.

The Watson's in disrepair 

We stopped at numerous spots in South Mumbai, including Ghandi's house, caught a public bus and train and had afternoon tea at a very simple but popular snack bar/ restaurant. It's so popular we had to queue to get in! The dishes she selected were scrumptious!

Next a walk through a vegetable and fruit market and then the train to look at the largest 'open air laundry' in Mumbai. About 1000 men hand wash laundry here 7 days a week, up to 18 hours a day. They live in simple shacks, ten to a room, to send money home to their families up north, where they visit once a year. Very sad to see. The amount of washing they must get through a day, there were uniforms, hotel sheets, and all the ironing is done with coal filled irons. They have a simple but effective coding system to identify which items goes in which batch of washing.

The open air laundry 

Back from there in a taxi, where our guide had to assert herself at the end of the ride as the driver was trying to overcharge her hugely, so she had to stand her ground!

Alleyway view

Last visit was to the Victoria trainstation, which was a beautiful English style building; interestingly it is the design that was meant to be in Melbourne; instead they got the Mumbai design. Shanna reckons Melbourne lucked out for sure.

Our dresses have arrived from the tailor just now, so time to try them on and make sure they fit.

Day 244, Mumbai, India

Mumbai skyline 

We spent an entire day in Mumbai and did not see another single white person except for in the hotel this morning and tonight. Where are they all or they not venture out?

We went walking this morning and headed to a local 'mall' as we wanted to buy dresses for the wedding this weekend. The shopping centre ended up being just one department store but it was fun having a browse anyway and start to get an idea of what to wear. 

Next stop was a dress shop, which displayed beautiful dresses in the windows, so we decided to pop in there.

Indian IT help desk 

Well, we were treated so nicely. The shop assistant was so helpful in giving us ideas on what to wear to an Indian wedding, we were offered masala tea, water, and plenty of different style dresses. No browsing through racks of dresses; here you sit and the dresses are pulled out for you. Books with different styles and colours, all you do is point and say I quite like that one, and it appears in front of you. We had at one stage 5 people serving us; one was a girl who came in to help put the dresses on, a guy who took measurements for the alterations, one sales guy with a lady and another guy who just stood and nodded. We certainly felt well looked after and we both found a dress we really liked, so that's one dress down, one to go.

At the market 

The back to the hotel to collect our bags; we are moving from Juhu Beach to South Mumbai. 

The taxi ride was a hoot, he talked heaps and was a driver of dubious skill, although he had plenty to say about the other drivers on the road!

Not the cleanest city.

The 'new' hotel is in a busy built up area and tonight we ventured out attempting to find a restaurant. Instead we walked in a busy market street, selling vegetables. We picked up some dinner at a street vendor; fresh samosas, very tasty, and had dinner watching a fascinating Indian soap opera!

Day 243, Mumbai, India

Watching the sunset at the beach 

We didn't get to bed until about 2.30, which was 4.00 am Thailand time for me and 8.00 am for Shanna. She especially was tired; I was talking to her about something and nek minute...asleep.

We got up at a reasonable hour though and after breakfast met up with Shanna's best friend's brother, who arrived here 3 days ago and we went for a walk to explore the area and beach.

A perfect shot 

After that we really didn't do much except relax. We sat by the pool, had a swim, Shanna made friends with a wee lad who was playing by the pool, we chatted, had a beer and agreed what a tough life this was.

We also had a beauty treatment; Shanna a scrub and wrap and for me a facial. We were in hysterics over the paper undies Shanna had to wear, they looked like the paper booties that doctors and nurses wear in the operating room! I wish I had my camera then.

Mattie & Shanna Juhu beach

We did enjoy the pampering though, it was so relaxing.

Next we got back to the poolside, from where we sat and watched a stunning sun set into the Indian Ocean. The beach was so busy, all locals, and all just standing around, only a few stretch out on the sand or go for an actual walk; they just stand there.

We cheated and had room service tonight, and as I am writing this Shanna Banana has fallen asleep again, but that's all good, she'll be ready for some sightseeing tomorrow, to see some more on Mumbai.